Expert Review and Adjustment of Overnight Facial Mask Formula for Dry, Dull, Acne-Prone Skin

Based on your skin concerns (dry, dehydrated, dull, uneven tone, clogged pores, bumps) and your goal for a brightening, hydrating, firming, smoothing, and acne-reducing overnight mask, the team has reviewed your formula and provided feedback and a revised formulation.

Here is a summary of the feedback and the proposed revised formula:

Feedback on Original Formula:

• The combination of Soy Lecithin and Xanthan Gum is not suitable for creating a cream texture in this type of formula.
• Using too many types of proteins can result in a sticky feeling on the skin.
• The original formula requires heating during preparation.
• The original formula does not contain ingredients to address acne or clogged pores.
• Hi-Quercetin will give the formula a strong yellow color.
• Activated Resorcinol was recommended to be removed as it might cause irritation, especially since Tranexamic Acid is also present.

Revised Formula Proposed by the Team:

• Rose Water (Rosa Damascena): Remaining to 100% (approx. 51.8%)
• Repair Activator™: 5%
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 3%
• Hi-Quercetin® (Onion Extract / หัวหอมสกัด): 3% (Note: Causes yellow color)
• Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin): 3%
• Aloe Vera Extract (อัตราสกัด 10:1 FullAssay™): 1%
• Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™): 3%
• Methyl Gluceth-20: 2%
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside): 2%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
• Phospholipid: 3% (Note: Requires a blender)
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
• shea butter (Refined): 10% (Increased from 5% to help with dry skin)
• German Chamomile Extract (Natural Bisabolol): 1%
• Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus): 1%
• Butter Cream Maker: 3% (Added as an emulsifier)

Mixing Instructions:

1. Prepare the Oil Phase: Gently heat the heat-tolerant oil ingredients (shea butter and Butter Cream Maker) to 70°C until fully melted and combined.
2. Prepare the Water Phase: Mix the heat-tolerant water ingredients (Rose Water, Panthenol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Safe-B3™, Tranexamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol SA). Heat this phase to 60-70°C, close to the oil phase temperature.
3. Emulsify: Gradually add the heated Water Phase into the heated Oil Phase while stirring or blending until a cream texture forms.
4. Cool and Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Let the cream cool down to 40°C. Add the remaining ingredients (Repair Activator™, Hi-Quercetin®, Wild Yam Extract, Aloe Vera Extract, Apple Stem Cell Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Phospholipid, Disodium EDTA, German Chamomile Extract). Stir or blend until well combined.
5. Note on Phospholipid: Phospholipid requires a blender to be properly incorporated into the formula. If you do not have a blender, please omit this ingredient.

Additional Recommendations:

• This revised formula focuses on hydration, brightening, and anti-aging benefits. It will not address acne or clogged pores. The team recommends preparing a separate formula, such as a BHA toner, specifically for treating acne-prone areas after cleansing.
• The presence of Hi-Quercetin will result in a yellow color for the formula. If you prefer the mask not to be yellow, you can omit this ingredient.
• The amount of shea butter was increased to 10% to provide more oil for dry skin.

This revised formula and mixing method should provide a suitable overnight mask focusing on hydration, brightening, and skin repair, while noting its limitations regarding acne.