Eye Cream Formula Analysis for Dark Circles, Wrinkles, and Sensitive Skin

Asked by: maneenate_2015 On: September 17, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have small wrinkles and dark circles around my eyes. My eyes are large, and I have allergies, and I often sleep late. I'm 22 years old and wondering if I can still improve these issues.

I am planning to make an eye cream with the following ingredients and percentages:

  • Grape Seed Oil 15%
  • Light Cream Maker 1.5%
  • REGU-AGE
  • Double Hyaluron
  • Lift-Now
  • WhiteCumin
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.1%

I have a few questions about this formula:

  1. Will the texture be too liquid or too thick with these percentages?
  2. Should I add or remove any ingredients to better address my concerns (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness, dryness) and my allergy-prone skin?
  3. At what stage of the formulation process should I add the preservative (Phenoxyethanol)?

Answer

Eye Cream Formula Analysis

Based on the ingredients and percentages provided, here is an assessment of your formula:

1. Texture (Liquid or Thick?)

With 15% Grape Seed Oil and 1.5% Light Cream Maker, your formula should result in a medium-light cream texture. Light Cream Maker is designed to create light, non-greasy creams and is recommended at 1-1.5% for typical use, handling up to 20% oil. Using 1.5% is at the higher end of the standard recommendation, which helps achieve a medium consistency with your oil percentage.

Keep in mind that some active ingredients, like those in REGU-AGE, Double Hyaluron, Lift-Now, and WhiteCumin, can contain electrolytes or affect the formula's ionic balance, which might slightly reduce the viscosity created by the Light Cream Maker. However, 1.5% should still provide a good medium consistency, not overly liquid or too thick.

2. Should anything be added or removed?

Your formula includes several good ingredients targeting your concerns (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness, dryness).

  • REGU-AGE is excellent for reducing dark circles and puffiness.
  • Double Hyaluron and Glycerin provide good hydration, which is important for the delicate eye area and can help with dryness. You could consider slightly increasing Double Hyaluron to 3-5% if you find the hydration isn't sufficient for your dry skin, as its description suggests higher percentages for drier skin types.
  • Lift-Now provides a temporary lifting effect for wrinkles.
  • Grape Seed Oil is a nourishing emollient.
  • WhiteCumin helps with brightening and has antioxidant properties, beneficial for dark circles and anti-aging.

However, there is a critical issue with the preservation:

  • Your formula uses Phenoxyethanol at 0.1%. The recommended usage rate for Phenoxyethanol is typically 0.5-1.0%, and for eye products, it should not exceed 0.5%. At 0.1%, the concentration is likely insufficient to adequately preserve the product and prevent microbial growth, especially since Phenoxyethanol alone is more effective against bacteria than fungi. You should increase the Phenoxyethanol concentration to 0.5% to ensure proper preservation for an eye product. Alternatively, consider using a broad-spectrum preservative blend suitable for eye area products.

Potential Additions for Enhanced Efficacy:

Considering your skin type (allergy-prone) and concerns (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness, dryness):

  • For Allergy-Prone Skin: The description for REGU-AGE suggests combining it with ingredients that help reduce irritation or allergies, such as Beta Glucan or Ceramide Complex. Adding one of these ingredients could help strengthen your skin barrier and reduce sensitivity around the eyes, which is beneficial if you have allergies.
  • For Long-Term Wrinkle Reduction: Lift-Now provides a temporary effect. To address wrinkles long-term, you could add a peptide known for stimulating collagen synthesis, such as Matrixyl 3000 or Pep-Coll. These work over time to improve skin structure and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

You do not necessarily need to remove anything, but adjusting the preservative level is essential for product safety and stability. Adding Beta Glucan or Ceramide Complex and/or a long-term anti-wrinkle peptide would enhance the formula's benefits for your specific needs.

3. Preservative Addition Timing

Phenoxyethanol can be added in the final step of your formulation. The product description states it can be mixed in any step as long as the temperature is below 80°C. Since your active ingredients like REGU-AGE, Double Hyaluron, Lift-Now, and WhiteCumin are typically added in the final step below 40°C, adding the Phenoxyethanol at this stage is ideal. This ensures the preservative is not subjected to any higher temperatures and is incorporated along with other heat-sensitive components after the cream has formed and cooled.


In summary, your formula has a good base for a medium-light eye cream targeting dark circles, puffiness, and temporary lifting. The most crucial adjustment is to increase the Phenoxyethanol to a safe and effective level (0.5% for eye products). Adding ingredients like Beta Glucan or Ceramide Complex can help with allergy-prone skin, and a long-term peptide like Matrixyl 3000 or Pep-Coll can provide sustained wrinkle reduction. Add the preservative in the final step along with your other active ingredients.