Eye Cream Formula Review: Compatibility, DMAE Concentration, and Puffiness
Asked by: peeya_pgi
On: March 30, 2018
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I'm formulating an eye cream for my mother. The formula includes DMAE 10%, Phospholipid, AnyGel™, REGU®-AGE, and Slim-Coffee™. I have a few questions:
- Are the ingredients compatible? Is the concentration too high, or are there redundant ingredients?
- How effective is this formula for reducing under-eye puffiness, especially with REGU®-AGE and Slim-Coffee™? Are there other ingredients that could help?
Answer
Hello,
Regarding the eye cream formula for your mother:
Formula Compatibility, Strength, and Redundancy:
- Compatibility: Based on the ingredients listed (Phospholipid and AnyGel™ without an oil phase), this formula is likely not mixable as the Phospholipid requires both water and oil components to disperse properly with this type of thickener.
- Strength/Irritation: The concentration of DMAE at 10% is quite high, especially for the delicate eye area and mature skin. It may cause irritation. It is generally recommended to use DMAE at lower concentrations (e.g., 1-3%) around the eyes, or omit it if sensitivity is a concern.
- Redundancy: The ingredients target various concerns like wrinkles, puffiness, and moisture, which is appropriate for a comprehensive eye cream. There isn't significant redundancy in terms of the function of the active ingredients, but the formulation itself has compatibility issues as mentioned above.
Effectiveness for Under-Eye Puffiness and Alternatives:
- Your formula includes REGU®-AGE and Slim-Coffee™ (Caffeine), both of which are known active ingredients used to help reduce the appearance of under-eye puffiness by improving microcirculation and reducing fluid retention. So, the formula does contain ingredients aimed at this goal.
- The effectiveness can vary depending on the underlying cause of the puffiness (e.g., fluid retention, fat pads, lack of sleep) and individual response.
- If you find the puffiness reduction is not sufficient, other ingredients that can help address puffiness include certain peptides or botanical extracts known for their draining or circulation-boosting properties. However, the current formula already includes key actives for this.
To make the formula mixable and potentially less irritating, you might consider:
- Removing Phospholipid if you don't plan to add an oil phase.
- Reducing the concentration of DMAE significantly (e.g., to 1-3%) or removing it.
- If you wish to keep Phospholipid, you would need to add an oil phase and potentially change the gelling agent to an emulsifier compatible with oil and water phases.
Hope this helps!
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