Eye Cream Formulation Review and Feedback
Question
I have developed an eye cream formula targeting wrinkles, dark circles, and moisture. The formula includes:
- Matrixyl 3000 (5%)
- Apple Stem Cell (5%)
- Regu-Age (5%)
- Apricot Kernel Oil (15%)
- Sweet Almond Oil (15%)
The total oil phase is 30%. I am considering using either Satin Cream Maker or Light Cream Maker as the emulsifier.
Could you please provide feedback on this formula regarding:
- The suitability and effectiveness of the chosen ingredients and their percentages for my stated goals (wrinkles, dark circles, moisture).
- The suitability of Satin Cream Maker vs. Light Cream Maker as the emulsifier, considering the 30% oil phase.
- Suggestions for any additional ingredients, such as Vitamin E Acetate.
- Recommendations for an appropriate batch size or shelf life for homemade eye cream to maintain the potency of the active ingredients?
Answer
Eye Cream Formulation Feedback
Based on your revised eye cream formula and your goals (reducing wrinkles, dark circles, and providing moisture), here is some feedback:
Texture Difference: Satin Cream Maker vs. Light Cream Maker
- Satin Cream Maker: This emulsifier creates a pearl white cream with a soft and smooth texture. A key feature is its ability to absorb bubbles in the formula, resulting in a smooth finish without needing vacuum. It can handle up to 25% oil.
- Light Cream Maker: This emulsifier produces a light, smooth cream that is easily absorbed and does not feel sticky or gooey. It works without heat and can handle up to 20% oil.
In your formula, both would likely work as your oil phase is 30%, which is slightly above the recommended maximum for Light Cream Maker but within the range for Satin Cream Maker. However, Satin Cream Maker is generally better suited for formulas with a higher oil content (up to 25% is mentioned, but it might handle slightly more depending on the specific oils and other ingredients) and provides a smooth, pearl-white finish. Light Cream Maker is ideal for lighter, easily absorbed creams.
Formula Review and Suggestions
Your revised formula includes key active ingredients at effective concentrations:
- Matrixyl 3000 (5%): This peptide is excellent for stimulating collagen synthesis, reducing wrinkles, and improving skin elasticity and moisture. Your usage rate is within the recommended range (3-5%).
- Apple Stem Cell (5%): This ingredient helps to slow down skin aging and reduce wrinkles. Your usage rate is also within the recommended range (0.5-5%).
- Regu-Age (5%): This is specifically designed to reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes and strengthen the delicate skin. Your usage rate is at the maximum recommended level (2-5%), which should provide good efficacy for dark circles.
The oil phase (Apricot Kernel Oil 15%, Sweet Almond Oil 15%) at a total of 30% will provide significant moisture, as noted by the staff. If you prefer a less oily feel, you could consider slightly reducing the oil percentage and increasing the water phase, or incorporating a lighter emollient. However, for dry skin or intense moisture around the eyes, 30% oil can be beneficial.
Suggestion: Adding Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) at 0.5-1% as suggested by the staff is a good idea. It acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from free radical damage and complementing the anti-aging effects of the other ingredients. It should be added to the oil phase.
Overall, your formula is well-structured to target wrinkles, dark circles, and moisture. The percentages of the active ingredients are appropriate.
Batch Size for Mixing
For homemade cosmetics, especially those containing active ingredients like peptides and extracts, it is generally recommended to mix in small batches. This helps ensure the freshness and potency of the active ingredients, which can degrade over time, especially if not stored under optimal conditions. Mixing a batch that you can use within 1 to 3 months is a good practice. Proper storage in a cool, dark place and in a well-sealed container will also help maintain the quality of your eye cream.
Related Products Mentioned
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Apricot Kernel Oil (Refined)
Light Cream Maker™
REGU®-AGE (CB)