Eyelash Gel & Liquid Facial Soap Formulation Issues (Texture, Viscosity, Foaming)

Question

I have two formulation questions: Eyelash Gel: I made an eyelash gel with the following formula: Long lash 9% Pro polymer 1.5% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Water (remaining percentage) I used only these ingredients to minimize potential eye irritation. However, the gel dries slowly and I haven't seen much results in terms of eyelash length, although lash shedding has reduced. I would like to ask: Should I add a carrier to improve skin penetration? If so, which one and at what percentage? Are there any other suggestions to improve the formula? Liquid Facial Soap: I initially made a liquid facial soap with the following formula: COCAMIDOPROPLY BETAIN 25% coco wash 4% Sodium Laureth sulfate 15% Fragrance 1.5% Water (remaining percentage) The texture was initially thick and good. However, after adding Propylene glycol 4%, herbal extracts 5%, and preservative 0.6% (by reducing the water amount accordingly), the soap became very liquid, losing its original thickness. I tried adding Sodium chloride but it had no effect. I would like to ask: How should I adjust the concentration or add ingredients to restore the thickness? Should I add Pro polymer or Xanthan gum? How can I adjust the formula to increase the amount of foam, as the current foam volume is not high enough?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Recommendations for Your Formulas

1) Eyelash Gel Formulation

Regarding your eyelash gel formula containing Long lash 9%, Pro polymer 1.5%, Phenoxyethanol 0.5%, and water, this is considered a good and safe formula for the eye area. The observation that lash shedding has stopped is a positive sign that the product is working at a foundational level.

Adding a Carrier: It is not recommended to add typical carriers to this formula as most carriers can potentially cause eye irritation, which should be avoided in eye products. The current formula already provides good absorption.
Length Results: Increasing eyelash length takes time and consistent application. You will typically start seeing more noticeable results after continuous use for about 6 weeks or longer. Ensure you apply the gel carefully to the base of the lashes where growth occurs.
Slow Drying Issue: To help the gel dry faster, you can try reducing the amount of Pro polymer to around 1%. This small reduction should not significantly impact the overall performance of the formula.

In summary, for the eyelash gel, it is recommended to continue using the current formula consistently, applying it to the lash roots, and being patient for length results. If slow drying is a significant concern, try reducing the Pro polymer concentration.

2) Liquid Facial Soap Formulation

The issue of your liquid facial soap becoming thin after adding Propylene glycol, herbal extracts, and preservative is likely due to these ingredients interfering with the thickening mechanism of your original surfactant system, which may have relied primarily on salt (Sodium chloride). This is why adding more salt afterwards did not help.

Adjusting Viscosity: Using a different type of thickener that works well in systems with various ingredients will help solve this problem better than relying solely on salt.
- Based on the advice, it is recommended to use SugarThick at 2-3% to help increase the viscosity of your liquid soap. SugarThick is a plant-derived thickener that works well in formulas containing various surfactants and can also help reduce irritation from sulfate-based surfactants.
- You could also consider using Xanthan gum or Pro polymer as thickeners, but SugarThick is specifically recommended for this type of issue in surfactant systems.
Increasing Foam Volume: If you want to increase the amount of foam, you can add a foam booster to your formula.
- The advice suggests trying BabyFoam or Creamy Foamer. These are ingredients designed to enhance the volume and stability of foam in cleansing products.

Therefore, to address the thinning issue in your liquid soap, using SugarThick as the primary thickener is recommended. If you desire more foam, consider adding BabyFoam or Creamy Foamer.