Eyelash Growth and Strengthening Serum Formulation Questions
Question
I want to create a formulation specifically for nourishing, stimulating growth, and reducing shedding of eyelashes using the following ingredients:
Long-Lash™ 10%
Biotinyl-GHK (Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) 3%
Melatonin Forte™ 1%
Biotin Express™ 1%
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ 0.5%
Urea 5%
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
Triacetin (Glycerol triacetate) 0.5%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 0.5%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 0.3%
Water (balance)
(Ingredient percentages may be adjusted down later if too strong or irritating).
Are there any ingredients in this list whose mechanisms of action are complex or significantly overlap? If not, I would like to use them to complement each other.
Regarding Triacetin (Glycerol triacetate), I am unsure of its additional functions besides being recommended for use with Urea based on the information provided for Biotin Express™. What other uses does it have? Also, Triacetin (Glycerol triacetate) is stated as not dissolving in water and oil. Should I add an Emulsifier, or is Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) sufficient to help stabilize it?
Can Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) effectively help penetrate these ingredients without causing issues, especially when used near the eye area?
Answer
Eyelash Growth and Strengthening Serum Formulation Advice
The formulation you've designed for eyelash nourishment and growth appears to combine several ingredients with complementary mechanisms of action.
Ingredient Functions and Overlap
- Long-Lash™, Biotinyl-GHK, and Melatonin Forte™ are key actives aimed at stimulating eyelash growth and reducing shedding through different pathways.
- Biotin supports hair health, growth, and strength.
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) provides essential nourishment and moisture to the lashes.
- Urea enhances the penetration of Biotin.
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) acts as a general penetration enhancer for water-soluble ingredients in your formula.
- Triacetin stabilizes Urea.
- Mild Preserved Eco™ provides preservation and some moisturizing benefits.
- Pro Polymer™ creates the gel texture.
The active ingredients primarily work through distinct or complementary mechanisms, making their combination potentially beneficial for a multi-faceted approach to eyelash enhancement.
Role of Triacetin
According to the product description, Triacetin is soluble in water, alcohols, organic solvents, and aromatic hydrocarbons. Its primary role in your formula, especially in conjunction with Urea, is to help stabilize the Urea and prevent the pH from rising over time, thus maintaining the formula's stability and the effectiveness of Urea. Based on the product information, it should dissolve in the water phase of your formulation.
Incorporating Triacetin
Since the product description indicates Triacetin is water-soluble, it should be mixed into the water phase. You do not necessarily need an additional emulsifier specifically for Triacetin if it dissolves completely in the water phase. Pro Polymer™ is a gel maker and thickener, not an emulsifier, and its function is to create the gel structure of the formula.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is an effective penetration enhancer for water-soluble ingredients, which can help the active ingredients like peptides, melatonin, biotin, and panthenol better absorb into the skin at the base of the eyelashes. Based on product examples that use DMI in eye serums and creams, it is considered suitable for use in formulations applied near the eye area. However, as with any ingredient, it's always recommended to perform stability and safety testing for your specific final formulation, especially for a sensitive area like the eyes.
Your planned formulation incorporates several well-regarded ingredients for eyelash care. Ensure you follow the recommended usage rates and mixing instructions for each ingredient, paying particular attention to the stability requirements for Melatonin and Biotin.
Related Products Mentioned
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Long-Lash™
Melatonin Forte™
Pure-Biotin™
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Triacetin (Glycerol triacetate) (FEMA-2007)