Face Cream Formula for Melasma & Freckles (Beginner)
คำถาม
I am a beginner looking for a face cream formula (50g) to reduce melasma and freckles, along with simple mixing instructions. I would like to try making a formula using ingredients commonly used for these concerns.
Specifically, I am interested in a formula that might include ingredients like Tranexamic Acid and B3-Boost™ (Picolinamide). Could you provide a basic recipe and step-by-step guide suitable for someone new to cosmetic formulation?
Here is the formula I am considering, as provided by the expert:
Ingredients (for 50g cream):
- Phase 1 (Water Phase):
- Distilled Water: 39.15 g
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 1.5 g (3%)
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1 g (0.2%)
- Gelling/Thickening Agent (e.g., Xanthan Gum): 0.25 g (0.5%)
- Phase 2 (Oil Phase):
- Skin Nourishing Oil (e.g., Grape Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, or other cosmetic oils): 4.0 g (8%)
- Emulsifier (Choose an O/W emulsifier suitable for creams, e.g., Light Cream Maker): 1.5 g (3%)
- Phase 3 (Cool Down Phase - Add when cream is below 40°C):
- Butylene Glycol: 2.5 g (5%)
- B3-Boost™ (Picolinamide): 0.5 g (1%)
- Preservative (Choose a cosmetic preservative, e.g., Mild Preserved Eco): 0.5 g (1%)
Could you confirm if this is a suitable starting point and provide detailed mixing instructions?
คำตอบ
Face Cream Formula for Melasma and Freckles (50g) - Beginner Level
Hello! I understand you are looking for a face cream formula (50g) to reduce melasma and freckles and would like mixing instructions suitable for a beginner.
As the staff advised, there is no single formula that works perfectly for everyone. The effectiveness of ingredients depends on individual skin types, and testing on your own skin is the best approach.
However, to give you an overview and a starting point, I have gathered information on ingredients commonly used in products for reducing melasma, freckles, and uneven skin tone. I've put together a basic formula for beginners (50g) with simple instructions for you to consider.
This formula uses two key ingredients known for their properties in addressing melasma and dark spots: Tranexamic Acid and B3-Boost™ (Picolinamide). They have different mechanisms of action and can work well together.
Ingredients (for 50g cream):
- Phase 1 (Water Phase):
- Distilled Water: 39.15 g
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 1.5 g (3%)
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1 g (0.2%)
- Gelling/Thickening Agent (e.g., Xanthan Gum): 0.25 g (0.5%)
- Phase 2 (Oil Phase):
- Skin Nourishing Oil (e.g., Grape Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, or other cosmetic oils): 4.0 g (8%)
- Emulsifier (Choose an O/W emulsifier suitable for creams, e.g., Light Cream Maker): 1.5 g (3%)
- Phase 3 (Cool Down Phase - Add when cream is below 40°C):
- Butylene Glycol: 2.5 g (5%)
- B3-Boost™ (Picolinamide): 0.5 g (1%)
- Preservative (Choose a cosmetic preservative, e.g., Mild Preserved Eco): 0.5 g (1%)
Mixing Instructions:
- Prepare Equipment: Clean and sanitize all equipment, containers, and tools (e.g., weighing spoons/scales, beakers, spatulas, mini-blender or whisk) with 70% alcohol and let them air dry.
- Weigh Ingredients: Weigh each ingredient according to the amounts listed for each phase (Phase 1, Phase 2, Phase 3) in separate containers.
- Mix Phase 1 (Water Phase): Add Distilled Water, Tranexamic Acid, and Disodium EDTA to a heat-resistant container. Stir until the powders are fully dissolved. In a separate small container, mix the Gelling Agent with a small amount of oil (about 1-2g from Phase 2) to prevent clumping. Then add this mixture to Phase 1 and stir/blend until it starts to thicken slightly. Gently heat Phase 1 (using a hot plate or double boiler) to approximately 70-75°C.
- Mix Phase 2 (Oil Phase): Add Skin Nourishing Oil and Emulsifier to another heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to approximately 70-75°C, the same temperature as Phase 1.
- Combine Phases (Emulsification): Once both Phase 1 and Phase 2 reach approximately 70-75°C, slowly pour Phase 2 (oil phase) into Phase 1 (water phase) while continuously and rapidly stirring or blending with a stick blender or whisk. Continue blending or stirring until the mixture turns into a smooth, white cream. Remove from heat and stir or blend occasionally as the cream cools down.
- Add Phase 3 (Cool Down Phase): Wait until the cream has cooled down to below 40°C. In a small container, dissolve B3-Boost™ in Butylene Glycol. Stir well until dissolved. Add this mixture to the main cream base and stir thoroughly. Then add the Preservative and stir until everything is fully incorporated.
- (Optional but Recommended) Check and Adjust pH: Use pH paper or a pH meter to check the pH of the cream. The ideal pH for this formula should be in the range of 4.5-5.5. If the pH is too high or low, you can adjust it gradually using a pH adjuster like Lactic Acid (to lower pH) or Triethanolamine (to raise pH). Dilute the pH adjuster with a little water before adding it to the cream, stir well, and re-check the pH.
- Packaging: Once the cream has cooled completely, transfer it to a clean container. Close the lid tightly.
Additional Tips for Beginners:
- Cleanliness: Emphasize the importance of cleanliness for all equipment and your workspace to prevent microbial contamination.
- Patch Testing: Before applying the cream to your face, it's highly recommended to test a small amount on a patch of skin (e.g., inner forearm) to check for any allergic reactions or irritation.
- Storage: Store the cream in a cool place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Using an opaque container can help protect some ingredients from light degradation.
- Consistency: Reducing melasma and freckles often requires time and consistent use. Use the cream regularly for at least 4-8 weeks to start seeing noticeable results.
Making your own cream requires practice and understanding of different ingredients. This formula is just a starting point. You can research other ingredients in the Whitening category and potentially try modifying or adding other ingredients as you become more experienced.
Have fun making your cream!
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Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)