Face Cream Formulation for Dry Skin & Freckles, Eye Area Use, and Mixing
Question
I need a face cream that can also be used around the eyes. My skin type is dry and dehydrated with freckles. I am 37 years old.
I have formulated the following:
Formula 1:
- Activated Resorcinol 1%
- MSH White 4%
- Repair Activator 10%
- Pep-Coll 3%
- Moist 72 5%
- Water lock 2%
- Paeonia Preserve 0.5% (Should this be calculated based on the total weight or the weight of the distilled water part?)
- Distilled Water (remaining part)
- Luxury Cream Maker 1.5%
My questions are:
- Can this cream be used around the eyes?
- I previously added Pro Polymer at 0.5% to a formula, but after adding it, there was a strong smell similar to alcohol. Why did this happen?
- Could you please provide the mixing instructions for Formula 1?
Answer
Face Cream for Dry, Dehydrated Skin with Freckles (Can it be used around the eyes?)
Thank you for providing your formula. This formula contains several beneficial ingredients for addressing dry skin, dehydration, and freckles.
Regarding your questions:
1. Can this cream be used around the eyes?
While many of the ingredients in your formula, such as Pep-Coll and Water Lock, are suitable for the delicate eye area and can help with hydration and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, the formula also includes potent whitening agents like Activated Resorcinol and MSH White, and a high concentration of Repair Activator. These ingredients, especially at the concentrations you've listed, may cause irritation in the sensitive skin around the eyes.
It is generally recommended to use products specifically formulated for the eye area, which contain ingredients at concentrations suitable for this delicate skin. If you choose to use this formula around your eyes, I strongly recommend performing a patch test on a small area first to check for any adverse reactions. Alternatively, you might consider formulating a separate eye cream with milder ingredients or lower concentrations of potent actives.
2. Pro Polymer Smell
You mentioned experiencing a strong alcohol-like smell when using Pro Polymer at 0.5% previously. Pro Polymer is a gel-forming substance. While it typically doesn't have a strong alcohol odor, sometimes raw materials can have inherent smells due to their manufacturing process or residual components. Improper storage (exposure to moisture) or over-blending during mixing can also potentially affect the ingredient's properties or release certain odors. Ensure the ingredient is stored correctly and follow the recommended mixing method to avoid over-blending.
3. Mixing Instructions
Based on the ingredients you've listed and their properties:
- MSH White needs to be dissolved in an oil phase using heat (around 80°C).
- Activated Resorcinol also dissolves in oil.
- Luxury Cream Maker is a water-phase emulsifier that works without heat, but a small amount of heat (50-60°C) can help it dissolve.
- Pro Polymer is mixed in the water phase by slow stirring to hydrate.
- Heat-sensitive ingredients like Repair Activator, Pep-Coll, Moist 72, Water Lock, and Paeonia Preserve should be added in the cool-down phase below 40°C.
Your provided formula does not explicitly include an oil phase ingredient. To properly dissolve MSH White and Activated Resorcinol and create a stable emulsion with Luxury Cream Maker, an oil phase is necessary. Additionally, Activated Resorcinol is recommended to be used with Disodium EDTA to prevent discoloration, which is also not included in your list.
Therefore, I cannot provide complete mixing instructions for the formula as it is currently listed, as it appears to be missing a key component (oil phase) and potentially a stabilizing agent (Disodium EDTA) based on the ingredient requirements.
If you can provide a complete formula including an oil phase, I can provide detailed step-by-step mixing instructions following standard cosmetic formulation practices for creating an emulsion with these types of ingredients.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
MOIST72™
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
Luxury Cream Maker™
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)