Face Cream Texture Issue: Slow Absorption and Stickiness

Asked by: sakul_wudangzhan On: May 27, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I modify my night face cream formulation, which currently uses the provided ingredient list and percentages, to improve its absorption speed and reduce stickiness?

Answer

Based on the ingredients and percentages you provided for your night cream formulation, the slow absorption and stickiness are likely due to the combination and concentration of several humectants and film-forming ingredients in the water phase.

Ingredients that commonly contribute to a sticky or tacky feel, especially when used together or at higher percentages, include:

  • Water lock (Polyquaternium-51): This is a strong film-former designed to lock in moisture, which can feel sticky.
  • Snow mushroom Hyalulon: Polysaccharides like those from snow mushroom can provide hydration but may also contribute to a sticky or gel-like residue depending on the molecular weight and concentration.
  • Yerba Santa Glycoprotein: This ingredient also acts as a film-former and humectant and can add to the tackiness.
  • Propylene Glycol: While a common humectant and solvent, it can feel slightly sticky, especially at higher concentrations or in combination with other sticky ingredients.

To address the slow absorption and stickiness, I recommend trying to reduce the percentage of one or more of these ingredients. You will need to compensate for the reduction by increasing the percentage of your water phase (Distilled Water and Rose Water) to keep the total at 100%.

Here are some suggestions for adjustments you could try. It's best to make small changes and test the results:

  • Reduce Water lock (Polyquaternium-51): Try reducing from 1% to 0.3-0.5%.
  • Reduce Snow mushroom Hyalulon: Try reducing from 1% to 0.3-0.5%.
  • Reduce Yerba Santa Glycoprotein: Try reducing from 1.5% to 0.5-1%.
  • Reduce Propylene Glycol: You could try reducing this slightly, perhaps from 2% to 1-1.5%, although the other ingredients are more likely culprits for significant stickiness.

For example, if you reduce Water lock by 0.5%, Snow mushroom Hyalulon by 0.5%, and Yerba Santa Glycoprotein by 0.5%, you would reduce the total of these by 1.5%. You would then add that 1.5% back into your water phase (e.g., add 1% to Distilled Water and 0.5% to Rose Water).

The key is that the combined effect of multiple film-forming and humectant ingredients can lead to the texture you're experiencing. Experimenting with lower percentages of these specific ingredients should help improve the absorption speed and reduce the stickiness.