Face Mask Formulation Texture Issue
Question
I am trying to formulate a face mask using ingredients similar to a commercial product. I used the following ingredients:
- Jojoba Oil
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
- Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
- Allantoin
- Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
- Butter Cream Maker™ (or Rich Cream Maker)
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Fractionated Coconut Oil
- Purified Water
- Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
- Disodium EDTA
- Other ingredients possibly including Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, PEG100 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 beewax, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tin Oxide, parfum, PEG/PPG/PolyButylene Glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, Placental Protein, Polysorbate20, Toumaline Extract, Colloidal Gold, Alcohol Lecithin, Capryic Acid.
When I tried mixing, the resulting product was too liquid. I expected a thicker texture. I was told that the formula needs heat and that ingredients like Rich Cream Maker and Luxury Cream Maker can give a heavy texture with just warm temperatures. I am trying to understand why my mixture was liquid and how to achieve the desired texture, especially considering the heat sensitivity of some ingredients.
Answer
Hello! I understand you are trying to make a face mask and are having trouble getting the desired texture. It seems the mixture turned out too liquid.
Creating a cream or mask with an emulsion texture generally requires mixing a water phase and an oil phase together with the help of an emulsifier or cream maker. Most cream makers require heat to properly dissolve and combine the phases.
Based on the previous conversation with the staff and the example formula for Butter Cream Maker, the formula does require water (75% in the example). So, your previous attempt should have included water.
The reason your mixture was liquid is likely due to the mixing process. For cream makers that require heat, you typically need to heat the oil phase (including the cream maker) and the water phase separately to the required temperature (around 80°C for Butter Cream Maker). Then, you slowly add the oil phase to the water phase (or vice versa, depending on the emulsifier type) while continuously stirring or blending as the mixture cools down. Continuous mixing during cooling is crucial for forming a stable emulsion.
Important: Many active ingredients like plant extracts (Jojoba Oil, Aloe Vera, Bisabolol, Licorice Extract, Allantoin, Hexylresorcinol) are sensitive to high heat. Adding them while the mixture is still hot (80°C) can degrade them and reduce their effectiveness. These heat-sensitive ingredients should be added in the cool-down phase, after the emulsion has formed and the temperature has dropped below 40°C.
If you prefer a cream maker that requires less heat, the staff suggested Luxury Cream Maker, which works with gentle warming.
To help you formulate, here is a sample formula structure and basic mixing guide using Butter Cream Maker and the key active ingredients you mentioned. Please note that this is a sample, and percentages may need adjustment based on the specific properties you desire and the recommended usage rates of each ingredient.
Sample Face Mask Formula (Using Butter Cream Maker)
Phase A (Water Phase - Heat to ~80°C):
- Purified Water: Approx. 60-70% (Adjust percentage based on other ingredients)
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2% (Helps prevent discoloration of some active ingredients)
Phase B (Oil Phase - Heat to ~80°C):
- Butter Cream Maker: 4%
- Cetyl Alcohol: 6%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 10%
- Jojoba Oil: 5% (Or adjust as needed)
Phase C (Cool Down Phase - Add below 40°C):
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble): 1-3%
- Aloe Vera Extract: 1-10%
- Allantoin: 0.5% (Can pre-dissolve in a small amount of water before adding)
- Natural Bisabolol: 0.5-1%
- Activated Resorcinol: 0.1-1% (For leave-on products)
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1% (Preservative)
Note: Other ingredients in your original list are typically used for texture, color, fragrance, and stability, and replicating the exact original formula requires specific formulation expertise.*
Mixing Instructions (for Butter Cream Maker)
- Prepare Phase A: Combine Purified Water and Disodium EDTA in a heat-resistant container. Heat to approximately 80°C.
- Prepare Phase B: Combine Butter Cream Maker, Cetyl Alcohol, Fractionated Coconut Oil, and Jojoba Oil in another heat-resistant container. Heat to approximately 80°C until solid ingredients are fully melted and mixed.
- Combine Phases: Slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while continuously stirring or blending (using a hand blender, for example). Continue stirring/blending as the mixture cools to form the emulsion.
- Cool and Continue Mixing: Keep stirring or blending as the mixture cools down. Continuous mixing during this phase is very important for a smooth and stable cream texture.
- Add Phase C: Once the mixture has cooled to below 40°C (it should feel slightly warm or at room temperature), gradually add the active ingredients and preservative (Phase C). Stir or blend gently until fully incorporated.
- Allow to Set: Pour the finished cream into your container, close the lid, and let it sit for at least 12 hours to allow the texture to fully develop and thicken.
If you prefer to use a cream maker that requires less heat, you can consider using Luxury Cream Maker. Please refer to the specific usage instructions for that product.
I hope this guide helps you with your formulation! Let me know if you have any more questions.
Relevant products mentioned:
- Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
- Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
- Allantoin
- Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
- Butter Cream Maker™
- Luxury Cream Maker™
- Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
- Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Fractionated Coconut Oil
- Disodium EDTA
Related Products Mentioned
Allantoin
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Cetyl Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
Luxury Cream Maker™
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)