Face Massage Cream Formula and Texture for Relaxation

Question

I am developing a face massage cream and need a formula that provides a slippery texture with a long "playtime" for relaxation. I am considering using ingredients like Petrolatum, Beeswax, and Cetearyl Alcohol. How do Beeswax and Cetearyl Alcohol compare in terms of absorption speed and playtime? Is it necessary to calculate HLB for this type of formula, or are there alternative methods? What is the function of ingredients like Petrolatum and Chlorphenesin, and how do natural oils/extracts fit into this formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Regarding your face massage cream formula

Hello,

You asked for feedback on a cream formula for face massage, focusing on a slippery texture for relaxation.

Based on the discussion:

Your original formula type would typically require HLB calculation for emulsification.
The staff recommended an alternative approach using a cream maker, which simplifies the process by not requiring HLB calculation.
Specific ingredients were clarified: Petrolatum is indeed Vaseline Jelly. Chlorphenesin is a preservative and is not necessary if you use Phenoxyethanol SA. Regarding replacing Beeswax with Cetearyl Alcohol, Beeswax is better for extending the "playtime" or how long the cream stays slippery on the skin before absorbing, which is beneficial for massage. Cetearyl Alcohol absorbs faster.
The natural oils/extracts in your original list were noted as being at low concentrations (0.2-0.8%). The goal for this cream is primarily the massage texture, so high levels of actives are not essential as it will be wiped off.

The staff provided a sample formula using the cream maker approach, designed to create a thick, slippery texture suitable for face massage:

Water: Remaining percentage
Petrolatum: 10%
Beeswax: 10%
Propylene Glycol: 5%
Dimethicone: 5%
Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 3%
Butter Cream Maker: 3%
Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
EDTA: 0.1%

You can adjust the amount of Beeswax to increase the playtime, but note that increasing Beeswax will also make the texture thicker and potentially harder to spread. You can also add fragrance, especially relaxing essential oils, and other desired ingredients like natural oils or extracts if you wish to add nourishing properties, keeping in mind the primary goal is the massage texture.

This recommended formula provides a good starting point for creating a slippery, long-lasting face massage cream without the need for complex HLB calculations.