Facial Cleanser Formulation for Normal to Slightly Oily Skin

Formula Evaluation and Suggestions

Your initial formula is a good starting point, using mild surfactants like Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Wash™ along with Creamy Foamer™ to boost foam. This approach is suitable for normal to slightly oily skin that needs effective cleansing and oil control.

Regarding the skin-benefiting ingredients in Phase B, such as Vitamin B5, Allantoin, MSM, Vitamin B3, and Zinc PCA, as the staff mentioned, these ingredients provide significant benefits when left on the skin in leave-on products. In a wash-off product, the contact time with the skin is very short, resulting in minimal absorption and benefit. However, including these ingredients at your specified percentages is not harmful and may still offer some sensory or conditioning feel.

For Phase C, which included Fractionated Coconut Oil and Tween, the staff's suggested formula removed this phase. Generally, in gel cleansers focused on cleansing and oil control, adding oils directly is not common, as the primary goal is to remove excess oil from the skin. Adding oil might make the cleanser feel less effective at cleaning.

If you wish to increase foam, Coco-Betaine, which you considered, is a good option. It can be added to the surfactant phase to improve foam quality and mildness.

Expected Texture

Based on the staff's recommended formula, which uses a thickener (ECOCERT/Organic Natural Thickener) and includes Creamy Foamer™, the resulting product will likely have a white gel texture. The viscosity will depend on the amount of thickener used.

Mixing Steps

The mixing steps suggested by the staff are more suitable and simpler than your initial plan. The recommended procedure is as follows:

1. Combine the ingredients in Phase A (surfactants, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin). Gentle heating to around 60-70°C can help dissolve Creamy Foamer™ and Lauryl Glucoside, which are viscous at room temperature.
2. Combine the ingredients in Phase B (actives, thickener, water) and stir until a gel forms.
3. Slowly pour Phase A into Phase B while stirring gently to combine. Avoid vigorous stirring to prevent excessive foaming.
4. Adjust the pH of the formula to approximately 4.5-6 using Lactic Acid.
5. Add the preservative, Phenoxyethanol, in the final step.

The staff's steps are more straightforward and compatible with a water-based gel cleanser formulation compared to incorporating a separate oil phase.

Adding BHA (Salicylic Acid)

You can incorporate BHA (Salicylic Acid) into your formula. Following the staff's guidance:

1. Dissolve the Salicylic Acid in Propylene Glycol first, as Salicylic Acid is not directly water-soluble.
2. Add approximately 3-5% Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) to the Salicylic Acid and Propylene Glycol mixture. This helps to solubilize the oil-soluble BHA in the water-based gel cleanser.
3. Add this dissolved BHA mixture during the normal mixing process (you can add it with Phase A or after combining A and B, but before adjusting the pH).
4. Since Salicylic Acid is acidic, adding it will lower the pH of your formula. Therefore, when adjusting the pH with Lactic Acid, you may need to use less Lactic Acid or potentially none at all. Always measure the pH after adding the BHA mixture and then slowly adjust with Lactic Acid until the desired pH (4.5-6) is reached.

Adding BHA will enhance the formula's ability to control oil and exfoliate the skin, which is beneficial for your and your boyfriend's skin type.