Facial Cleanser Formulation: Surfactants, Texture, and FDA

Asked by: areeya_dd On: May 14, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need advice on formulating a facial cleanser. I have two formulas I'm working on:

1. Oily/Combination Skin Formula (similar to Acne Aid Red):

My proposed ingredients and percentages are:

  • Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 15%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine 7%
  • PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 3%
  • Glycerin 5%
  • Sulfated Olive Oil 5%
  • Mineral Oil 5%
  • Myristic Acid (optional)
  • ClearClean™ (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) 5%
  • emulPearl™ (Glycol Distearate)
  • Sodium Hydroxide (for pH adjustment)

Could you please review these percentages and provide feedback on the formulation, especially regarding the oil content and the amount of Sodium Hydroxide needed?

2. Sensitive Skin Formula:

I also have a second formula for sensitive skin, but I haven't specified the ingredients yet. Could you provide guidance on formulating this version?

Additional Questions:

  • How can I increase the foam in the formula, perhaps by adding BabyFoam™ (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)?
  • What is the correct mixing procedure, especially when incorporating oils?
  • What are the steps required to obtain FDA approval (อย.) for this cosmetic product in Thailand?
  • If Cocamidopropyl Betaine is out of stock, what is a suitable substitute surfactant system?

Answer

Analysis and Recommendations for Your Facial Cleanser Formulas

Based on the conversation, here is a summary of the analysis and recommendations for your facial cleanser formulas, focusing on the oily/combination skin formula and your questions.

Oily/Combination Skin Formula (Similar to Acne Aid Red)

Based on the staff's feedback, here are the recommended adjustments and considerations for your oily/combination skin formula:

  • Surfactants: The staff recommended the following percentages for the main cleansing agents:
    • Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate: 15%
    • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 7% (Note: This ingredient is currently out of stock, expected next month. See substitute recommendation below if needed sooner.)
    • PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: 3%
  • Glycerin: The recommended percentage for Glycerin is 5%.
  • Oils (Sulfated Olive Oil and Mineral Oil): The staff noted that using a combined 10% of these oils (5% each) is a relatively high amount compared to the estimated 5-6% in the original Acne Aid. They advised performing tests to ensure the formula remains stable and does not separate.
  • Sodium Hydroxide: The staff explained that the amount of Sodium Hydroxide is not a fixed percentage but is used to adjust the pH of the final formula to the optimal range for ClearClean™ to thicken effectively (pH 6.5-6.8). You will need to measure the pH during mixing and add Sodium Hydroxide gradually until this range is achieved. The amount needed is likely very low, possibly less than 0.5%, similar to the original product.
  • Myristic Acid: This ingredient can help increase foam, but the staff felt it might not be necessary as the other surfactants should provide enough foam. It is available by contacting customer service directly.
  • Other Ingredients: The staff indicated that the percentages you provided for other ingredients are suitable.
  • ClearClean™ (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer): Used at 5% to provide thickening, requires pH adjustment as mentioned above.
  • emulPearl™ (Glycol Distearate): Used to give the product a pearly white appearance.

Sensitive Skin Formula

The second formula for sensitive skin was listed but not specifically analyzed or adjusted by the staff in the provided conversation thread.

Adding BabyFoam™ for More Foam

You can add BabyFoam™ (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) for more foam. However, the staff believes the current surfactant combination should provide sufficient foam. If you find the foam is not enough, the staff suggested that the first step should be to reduce or remove the oils (Sulfated Olive Oil and Mineral Oil) from the formula, as oils can decrease foam production.

Mixing Instructions

The general method is to add the ingredients to the water. If your formula contains oils, first mix the oils thoroughly with the surfactants before adding this mixture to the water. When mixing or stirring, do so gently and at a low speed, especially after adding surfactants, to prevent excessive foam from forming. Mixing at a low speed will still allow the ingredients to combine properly, though it may take a bit longer.

How to Get FDA Approval (อย.)

To obtain FDA approval (อย.) for cosmetic products in Thailand, you typically need to:

  1. Register the production facility where the product will be made.
  2. After the facility is registered, register the specific product formula.

The staff highly recommends contacting the FDA (อย.) directly for the most accurate and detailed information regarding the requirements and process for both facility and formula registration.

Substitute for Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is expected to be back in stock next month. If you need an alternative sooner, the staff recommended replacing the entire main surfactant system with:

  • Sulfate Free No-Tear Shampoo Base: 20%
  • PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: 3%

This combination would serve as the primary cleansing base instead of the original blend of Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.

I hope this summary is helpful for your formulation process!