Facial Cleansing Gel Formula Review

Your proposed facial cleansing gel formula for combination skin targeting clogged pores, moisture, low irritation, and a gel texture is well-formulated.

Here's a review of the ingredients and some suggestions:

• AminoWash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate): At 20%, this gentle, amino acid-derived surfactant effectively cleanses without stripping the skin, contributing to the non-drying and low-irritation properties you desire.
• Salicylic Acid EZ (Water-Soluble): Included at 5% (equivalent to 1% active Salicylic Acid), this ingredient is excellent for penetrating pores and helping to dissolve clogged pores.
• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): At 3%, Panthenol acts as a humectant and moisturizer, helping to keep the skin hydrated and reducing potential irritation from Salicylic Acid.
• NaturePreserve Ultra: This natural preservative at 1.25% ensures the stability and safety of your formula.
• Xanthan Gum: This provides the desired gel texture.

Mixing Considerations

As noted previously, dissolving Xanthan Gum in a formula containing a surfactant like AminoWash can be challenging due to potential foaming. To mitigate this, it is recommended to fully hydrate the Xanthan Gum in the water phase before adding the AminoWash and other ingredients.

If you prefer an easier mixing process, consider replacing Xanthan Gum with thickeners designed for surfactant systems, such as SugarThick or EasyThick. These alternatives are generally simpler to incorporate:

• SugarThick (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate): Easy to use, provides a clear gel, and works well with detergents. Use at 1-3%.
• EasyThick (POLYOXYETHYLENE GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE): Also provides a clear texture but requires heating to around 80°C for dissolution. Use at 3-15%.

pH Level

Regarding your concern about Panthenol's high pH, the combination of ingredients in your formula, particularly the acidic Salicylic Acid EZ and slightly acidic AminoWash, will lower the overall pH. The final pH is expected to be in the slightly acidic to neutral range (around 5-7), which is suitable for skin and the stability of the ingredients. While it's always best to measure the final pH, adjustment may not be necessary. If needed, a mild acid like Citric Acid solution can be used carefully.

Suggested Mixing Procedure (for the original formula with Xanthan Gum)

1. Measure the water.
2. Slowly add Xanthan Gum to the water while stirring or blending at high speed until a clear, lump-free gel forms.
3. Measure out AminoWash, NaturePreserve Ultra, and Panthenol.
4. Gently add AminoWash, NaturePreserve Ultra, and Panthenol to the gel base. Mix slowly and gently to avoid excessive foaming.
5. Add Salicylic Acid EZ and mix gently until fully dissolved and the formula is clear.
6. Measure the final pH and adjust if necessary.

Your formula is effective for your stated goals. The main point to consider is the mixing method for the thickener, or choosing an alternative thickener for easier preparation.