Facial Cleansing Gel Formulation for Acne-Prone, Oily, Sensitive Skin

Question

I would like to ask about the ingredients for a facial cleansing gel before ordering more raw materials.

My skin type is sensitive, oily, with large pores on the forehead and cheeks. I have acne around the hairline, jawline, and chin, with minor red/dark acne marks.

I want a facial cleansing gel to reduce oiliness, reduce acne, balance the skin, and feel clean after washing but not dry or tight.

Here is the proposed formula:

Distilled Water 59%
EDTA 0.2% (Can this be omitted?)
Natural PHA 5%
Allantoin 0.5%
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid Liquid 5%
Rice Vitamin 2%
Ichthammol 1.3% (Does this have a strong smell?)
Sulfate Free No-Tear Shampoo Base 25%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Phenonip® P4 1%

The mixing method is: Combine 1+2+3+4+5+6+7. Add 8 and stir gently. Add 9+10.

Are the ingredients compatible? Do I need to omit or add any ingredients? Is the mixing method correct?

Thank you in advance.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Facial Cleansing Gel Formulation Review

Here is a review of your proposed facial cleansing gel formulation for sensitive, oily, acne-prone skin, along with some recommendations:

Evaluation of Ingredients

Your ingredient selection includes several beneficial components for your skin type:

Natural PHA (Gluconolactone): At 5%, this is a good concentration for gentle exfoliation. PHA is less irritating than AHA and helps with cell turnover and hydration.
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid Liquid (Wash-Off): Using 5% provides 1.5% active Salicylic Acid, effective for acne and clogged pores. The encapsulated form is gentler for wash-off products.
Allantoin: The 0.5% rate is recommended for soothing and skin healing. Note its limited solubility in water at room temperature.
Rice Vitamin (Inositol): At 2%, it helps balance skin moisture and oiliness.
Ichthammol: This ingredient has a strong odor and is used for anti-bacterial/anti-inflammatory properties. Given your sensitive skin and other acne ingredients, you might consider removing it or reducing the concentration due to the smell and potential for irritation.
Disodium EDTA: At 0.2%, it helps with formula stability by binding metal ions in water. It can be removed if using distilled water, but keeping it is fine.
Sulfate Free No-Tear Shampoo Base: A gentle base suitable for sensitive skin, used at a reasonable cleansing concentration (25%).
Mild Preserved Eco and Phenonip P4: Using two preservatives is generally unnecessary for a wash-off product and increases irritation risk. Mild Preserved Eco at 1.0-1.5% is usually sufficient.

Recommended Adjustments

To optimize your formula for sensitive, oily, acne-prone skin, consider these adjustments:

Ichthammol: Recommend removing due to strong odor and potential for irritation, especially since you have other acne-fighting ingredients.
Preservatives: Remove Phenonip P4. Increase Mild Preserved Eco slightly to 1.5% for sufficient preservation.
Allantoin Solubility: To ensure 0.5% Allantoin fully dissolves, consider adding 1-2% Glycerin to the water phase and reducing the water percentage accordingly.

Revised Formula Suggestion:

Distilled Water: ~60.8% (Adjust based on Glycerin use)
Disodium EDTA: 0.2% (Optional)
Natural PHA (Gluconolactone): 5%
Allantoin: 0.5%
Rice Vitamin (Inositol): 2%
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid Liquid (Wash-Off): 5%
Sulfate Free No-Tear Shampoo Base: 25%
Mild Preserved Eco: 1.5%
Optional: Glycerin: 1-2% (Reduce water by the same amount)

Revised Mixing Method

In the water phase, combine Distilled Water, Disodium EDTA (if used), Natural PHA, Allantoin, and Rice Vitamin. Stir until fully dissolved. Gentle warming may help Allantoin dissolve. Allow sufficient time for PHA to dissolve.
Once cooled to room temperature, gently add Encapsulated Salicylic Acid Liquid. Mix slowly (below 1000 rpm).
Slowly add the Sulfate Free No-Tear Shampoo Base and mix gently until uniform.
Add Mild Preserved Eco and mix until uniform.
Check and adjust pH if necessary. The pH will likely be in the range of the base (6.5-7.5). Aiming for 5.5-6.5 might balance gentleness and efficacy.

This revised formula provides gentle cleansing and targeted treatment for oiliness and acne while minimizing potential irritation for sensitive skin.