Facial Cleansing Gel: Low Foam and Pumping Difficulty

Asked by: murderero On: June 03, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a facial cleansing gel. In my second batch, I experienced low foam and difficulty pumping the product, even though the gel texture was slightly thicker than water.

My formula for the second batch included:

  • MakeUp-Wash™
  • Creamy Foamer™ (at 15%)
  • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (as thickener)

In my first batch, I used Xanthan Gum as the thickener and Creamy Foamer™ at 10%, and it produced mousse-like foam, although not as dense as desired. I suspected MakeUp-Wash™ might be the cause of the problem in the second batch because I read it is used for makeup removal.

What is causing the low foam and pumping difficulty in the second batch? Is MakeUp-Wash™ suitable for a foaming facial cleanser formula?

Answer

Analysis of Your Facial Cleansing Gel Formula

Based on your formula changes and the properties of the ingredients, the main reason for the reduced foam and difficulty pumping in your second batch is likely the addition of MakeUp-Wash™.

Here's a breakdown:

  • MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): As the staff reply indicated and the product description confirms, MakeUp-Wash™ is designed as an extra gentle detergent for removing makeup, often used in micellar water formulations. It is not intended for creating dense foam and can actually interfere with foaming agents, reducing the amount and stability of foam.

  • Creamy Foamer™ (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate): This ingredient is specifically a foam booster designed to create soft and smooth foam in cleansing products. While increasing its concentration from 10% to 15% should ideally increase foam, the addition of MakeUp-Wash™ counteracted this effect.

  • Thickener Change (Xanthan Gum to Hydroxyethyl Cellulose): While the type of thickener can influence the texture and stability of foam, the primary issue here is the presence of MakeUp-Wash™. Xanthan gum is listed as a compatible thickener for Creamy Foamer™ in its product description, which might have contributed to better foam structure in your first batch compared to using Hydroxyethyl Cellulose in the second, but the impact of MakeUp-Wash™ is far more significant.

Recommendations to Improve Foam

  1. Remove MakeUp-Wash™: Eliminate MakeUp-Wash™ from your formula entirely if you want a foaming product. It is counterproductive for creating foam.
  2. Increase Creamy Foamer™: As suggested by the staff, consider increasing the concentration of Creamy Foamer™ to 20-30% to achieve a denser foam, especially after removing the foam-reducing MakeUp-Wash™.
  3. Consider Your Thickener: Revert to using Xanthan gum or try other thickeners listed as compatible with Creamy Foamer™ in its description, such as SugarThick™, ClearClean™, EasyThick™, Mild-Wash™, Coco-Foam™, or Flora Foam™. Ensure the thickener is properly hydrated and dispersed.

By removing MakeUp-Wash™ and potentially increasing Creamy Foamer™ and optimizing your thickener, you should be able to achieve the desired dense foam consistency for your facial cleansing gel.