Facial Cream Formulation Causes Pilling Issue

Hello,

The issue of cream forming flakes or "pilling" when applied and rubbed into the skin is a common problem in cosmetic formulations. Based on the ingredients and percentages you provided, the pilling issue likely stems from several interacting factors, particularly related to the water phase ingredients and the cream maker.

Possible Causes:

1. Light Cream Maker: According to the information for Light Cream Maker™ (Product ID: 141), it is an emulsifier and thickener that works without heat and has a wide pH range. However, the description explicitly states that "If spinning or not enough people Creamy texture when applied to the skin. Flaky may occur." It also mentions its tolerance to electrolytes, and some ingredients in your formula are electrolytes.
2. Electrolytes: DMAE (Product ID: 637) is an ingredient that acts as an electrolyte. The description for Light Cream Maker™ notes that electrolytes can soften the cream (make it more liquid), and if the formula contains a large amount of electrolytes, a higher percentage of Light Cream Maker™ might be needed to achieve the desired viscosity. The presence of electrolytes in the formula can affect the stability of the cream structure created by Light Cream Maker™, potentially leading to separation or residue that pills.
3. High Concentration of Water-Soluble Actives: Ingredients like Vitamin B3 (Product ID: 74), Stem cell apple (Product ID: 7779), Argireline (Product ID: 45), DMAE (Product ID: 637), and Matrixyl (Product ID: 51) are mostly water-soluble. When the cream is applied to the skin, the water evaporates, leaving these dissolved substances and other water-soluble ingredients behind. If the combined amount of water-soluble ingredients is too high, or if they interact with each other or the cream maker, they can form a thin film on the skin that is prone to rolling up and pilling when rubbed.
4. Carriers in Active Ingredients: Ingredients like Stem cell apple, Argireline, and Matrixyl are often supplied as solutions or contain carriers to aid delivery or stability. Some carriers, such as polymers or film-forming agents, are common causes of pilling.
5. Mixing Method: Improper mixing, such as high-speed stirring (Light Cream Maker™ recommends not exceeding 2500 rpm) or insufficient mixing to fully disperse and hydrate the Light Cream Maker™, can result in a non-homogeneous texture that pills upon application.

Suggested Solutions:

1. Adjust Mixing Method:
   • Ensure you follow the mixing instructions for Light Cream Maker™ carefully, paying attention to dispersion and stirring time for texture development.
   • Avoid excessive high-speed mixing after the cream has started to form.
   • Try adding electrolyte-containing ingredients (like DMAE) and peptide/stem cell ingredients (which may contain electrolyte or polymer carriers) in the final step, after the main cream base has formed. Add them gradually while stirring to ensure they are fully incorporated.
2. Adjust Light Cream Maker™ Concentration: Since your formula contains DMAE, which is an electrolyte, try slightly increasing the percentage of Light Cream Maker™ (e.g., from 1.8% to 2% or 2.5%). This might help stabilize the emulsion and better accommodate the electrolyte load and the total concentration of water-soluble ingredients. However, increase gradually, as too much can make the cream too thick.
3. Check the Formula's pH: Although Light Cream Maker™ has a wide pH tolerance, each active ingredient has an optimal pH range for efficacy and stability. Ensure the final pH of your cream is within the suitable range for all your active ingredients (generally between 4.0-6.5 is a good target for many actives) and compatible with Light Cream Maker™. An incorrect pH can affect ingredient interactions and stability.
4. Consider Slightly Reducing Some Active Concentrations (If Necessary): If the above steps don't fully resolve the pilling, you might consider slightly reducing the percentage of some of the higher-concentration water-soluble actives (like Vitamin B3 or Stem cell apple) to decrease the total solid residue left on the skin after water evaporation. However, be aware that this might impact the product's intended efficacy.
5. Consider an Alternative Cream Maker/Emulsifier: If the issue persists after trying the above adjustments, you might need to explore using a different cream maker or emulsifier system that is more compatible with the specific combination of peptides, electrolytes, and extracts in your formula.

Pilling occurs when some ingredients fail to integrate smoothly into the cream matrix or form a film on the skin that easily separates. Adjusting the mixing method and balancing the ingredients, particularly the cream maker, water-soluble actives, and electrolytes, are usually key to resolving this issue.