Facial Cream Formulation Issue: Low Water Content Affecting Texture for Anti-aging, Brightening, and Hydration
Question
I am formulating a facial cream for melasma, wrinkles, dehydration, and enlarged pores. I want a light, non-heavy texture. My formula currently has only 25% water and includes the following ingredients:
- Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate)
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR)
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
- Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
- ODA-White Plus™
- Natto Gum
- WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
- Double Hyaluron Liquid (Standard and Nano)
- Sodium Lactate
- Urea
- Sodium PCA
- 1,2-Hexanediol
- Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
- Butter Cream Maker™
How can I achieve a lighter texture with this formulation, and what are the mixing steps?
Answer
Hello,
Thank you for providing more details about the ingredients in your desired formula. I understand your skin concerns regarding melasma, wrinkles, dehydration, and enlarged pores, and your goal is a nourishing cream that feels light on the skin.
As the staff previously advised, your current formula contains only 25% water, which is significantly low for a facial cream. This low water content will result in a thick, heavy, and difficult-to-absorb texture, which is not what you desire. Water is a crucial base ingredient in most creams, helping to create a lighter texture, spread easily, and deliver active ingredients into the skin.
Due to this fundamental issue with the water percentage, providing detailed mixing steps for the original formula is not practical, as it will not yield the desired light texture.
However, the ingredients you have selected are excellent active ingredients with benefits targeting your skin concerns:
- For Anti-aging and Wrinkles:
- Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): Helps repair skin DNA damaged by UVA light and stimulates skin repair processes.
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR): A peptide blend that stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces wrinkles, improves skin elasticity and moisture, promoting youthful skin.
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): A peptide that helps reduce muscle tension responsible for expression lines, especially on the forehead and around the eyes. It works well with Matrixyl 3000.
- Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein): Provides antioxidant benefits, stimulates collagen production, reduces wrinkles, and balances the skin.
- For Skin Brightening and Melasma:
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Helps brighten skin and reduce melanin pigment formation, suitable for melasma, freckles, and dark spots.
- ODA-White Plus™: (Based on search results) An ingredient known for its skin brightening properties.
- Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein): In addition to anti-aging, it helps inhibit melanin production for a more even skin tone.
- Natto Gum: Besides moisturizing, it offers gentle skin brightening benefits and can enhance the efficacy of primary whitening agents.
- For Skin Hydration and Moisture:
- WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51): Helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a barrier on the skin's surface, working effectively with other moisturizers.
- Natto Gum: Highly effective in providing deep skin moisture due to its Polyglutamic Acid content (both large and small molecules).
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: Contains two molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano), providing moisture to both the outer and inner skin layers for plump, hydrated skin.
- Sodium Lactate, Urea, Sodium PCA: Key components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), helping to balance and hydrate the skin, preventing dryness.
- 1,2-Hexanediol: Acts as a solvent, preservative booster, and also a humectant, helping the skin retain water.
- Other Ingredients:
- Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): An antioxidant that protects skin from damage and helps slow down premature aging.
- Butter Cream Maker™: An emulsifier that helps oil and water phases combine into a cream texture. It is notable for its high tolerance to electrolytes and a wide pH range.
To achieve a lighter, easily absorbed cream texture while retaining the benefits of these active ingredients, I recommend revising your formula by significantly increasing the water percentage as advised by the staff (at least 60% for a night cream or 75-80% for a day cream). You would then need to proportionally adjust the percentages of the other non-water ingredients to total 100%.
This reformulation will fundamentally change the texture to be much lighter and more easily absorbed. Once you have a revised formula with an appropriate water percentage, please share it, and I can provide more specific guidance on the correct mixing steps for that particular formulation.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Sodium PCA 50%
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
Natto Gum Extract
Double Hyaluron Liquid
ODA-White Plus™
Butter Cream Maker™