Understanding Flaking and Pimples in Your Gel Formulation

It sounds like you've created a facial gel containing Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), NAG (Acetyl Glucosamine), Xanthan Gum, a preservative, and distilled water, and are experiencing two issues: immediate flaking (pilling) and later developing small pimples.

Why Flaking (Pilling) Occurs

The immediate flaking you observed when applying the gel after toner and witch hazel is a common phenomenon called "pilling." This often happens when different product layers don't interact well on the skin's surface. Gelling agents like Xanthan Gum are known to sometimes cause pilling, especially when applied over other products that leave a film on the skin (like some toners or products containing certain polymers or humectants).

The pilling effect can be influenced by:

• Ingredient Incompatibility: Certain ingredients in your gel (like Xanthan Gum) might be reacting with residues from the toner or witch hazel used beforehand.
• Application Technique: Applying too much product or rubbing it in too vigorously can cause pilling.
• Formula Concentration: High concentrations of gelling agents or other film-forming ingredients can increase the likelihood of pilling.

Regarding the Small Pimples

The appearance of small pimples after repeated use could indicate a reaction to one or more ingredients in your gel or the combination of products you are using. As the staff suggested, this could be a form of sensitivity or allergy.

Recommendations

1. Address Pilling:

   • Ensure your skin is completely dry after applying toner or witch hazel before applying the gel.
   • Try applying a very thin layer of the gel.
   • Pat the gel onto the skin gently instead of rubbing.
   • Consider the concentration of Xanthan Gum in your formula; a lower concentration might reduce pilling while still providing sufficient gelling.
   • Test the gel on its own without applying other products beforehand to see if pilling still occurs.

2. Address Pimples:

   • Follow the staff's advice: Stop using the gel for a period to see if the pimples clear up. This is the best way to determine if your gel is the cause.
   • If the pimples disappear after stopping use, you may have a sensitivity to one of the ingredients (Niacinamide, NAG, Xanthan Gum, or the preservative). You might try formulating again with a lower concentration of active ingredients or using a different type of preservative.
   • Niacinamide (like Safe-B3 or Extreme-B3) and NAG (like GlucoBright) are generally well-tolerated, but individual sensitivities can occur. High concentrations of Niacinamide can sometimes cause temporary redness or flushing, though high-purity grades like Safe-B3 and Extreme-B3 are designed to minimize this.

By adjusting your application method and potentially your formula, and by carefully observing your skin's reaction after stopping use, you should be able to identify the cause of these issues.