Facial Massage Cream Formulation and Active Ingredient Penetration (Water-in-oil)
Question
Based on a facial massage cream formulation using:
- Shea Butter: 20%
- Glyceryl Stearate SE: 10%
- Mineral Oil: Remaining percentage
which is a water-in-oil emulsion, how well can active ingredients, particularly water-soluble ones, penetrate the skin? Is this type of cream suitable for delivering actives?
Answer
For a facial massage cream designed to stay on the skin for a long time and provide good slip, an oil-based cream is typically used. These creams contain heavier oils that do not absorb quickly into the skin.
An example formulation discussed uses:
- Shea Butter: 20%
- Glyceryl Stearate SE: 10%
- Mineral Oil: Remaining percentage
Regarding the penetration of active ingredients, especially water-soluble ones, they will not penetrate well when using a heavy oil-based cream like this. The oil phase surrounds the actives (in a water-in-oil emulsion), preventing them from reaching the skin effectively.
Therefore, this type of massage cream is primarily for the benefits of the massage itself (improved circulation, muscle relaxation) and providing a smooth, long-lasting glide, rather than for delivering active ingredients deep into the skin. If you need to deliver actives, consider applying a serum or other treatment product before or after the massage.
