Formulation Advice for Facial Slimming Formula

Here is some advice regarding ingredients for a facial slimming formula, focusing on lipolysis and skin absorption, similar to products like Clarins.

1. Recommended Ingredients for Lipolysis (Caffeine, Theobromine)

For stimulating lipolysis (fat breakdown), caffeine is a well-known active ingredient used in cosmetic formulations. Based on our search, the following products containing caffeine are relevant:

• Encapsulated Caffeine (50% Caffeine Active): This product contains caffeine encapsulated in cyclodextrin, designed for slow release and effective action in anti-cellulite and anti-puffiness formulas, which involve breaking down fat.
• Energy-Blend™ (Caffeine+Adenosine+Vitamin B3): This blend combines Caffeine with Adenosine and Vitamin B3, also noted for use in anti-cellulite formulas to help break down fat under the skin and tighten the skin.

While you mentioned theobromine, our search did not identify a specific cosmetic active ingredient containing theobromine primarily marketed for lipolysis with supporting research in our database. The cocoa extract found is mainly for scent.

2. Absorption to Hypodermis and Penetration Enhancers

Achieving targeted delivery of active ingredients specifically to the hypodermis (subcutaneous fat layer) through topical application can be challenging. Most cosmetic penetration enhancers are designed to improve absorption into and through the upper layers of the skin (stratum corneum and epidermis).

However, certain technologies and enhancers can improve overall skin penetration, which might help actives reach deeper layers. Relevant penetration enhancers include:

• Laurocapram (Oil Soluble) and Laurocapram (Water Soluble): These are synthetic penetration enhancers known to improve the transport of ingredients through the skin.
• Tetrahydropiperine (Natural Penetration Enhancer): A natural extract that helps transport ingredients into the skin.
• TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24): Helps ingredients penetrate the skin and provides a faster absorption feel.

Additionally, encapsulation technologies, such as using Phosphatidylcholine (available in 50% and 80% concentrations), can be used to create liposomes or other delivery systems. These systems can potentially enhance the stability, solubility, and targeted delivery of active ingredients, which might improve their ability to reach deeper skin layers compared to unencapsulated forms.

When formulating, consider the solubility of your chosen active ingredients (caffeine is water-soluble) and select a compatible penetration enhancer. While these enhancers can significantly boost absorption, reaching the hypodermis specifically and effectively breaking down fat in that layer with a topical product remains a complex goal in cosmetic science.