Feasibility of Serum Formulation with Multiple Peptides and Actives
Asked by: joelfonat
On: April 01, 2019
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Can the following serum formulation be made?
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 5%
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) 8%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 10%
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%
- Wrinkle-Lax™ 0.5%
- Quick-Coll® 2%
- Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) 2%
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
- Phospholipid 5%
- Odor-Kill 1%
- 1,3-Propanediol 10%
- Glycerin Gel 10%
- Water 34.5%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1%
Answer
Cosmetic Formula Feasibility
Regarding the cosmetic formula you provided, it is generally possible to create, but there are a few points to consider regarding the recommended usage rates and mixing procedures for some ingredients.
Ingredient Analysis and Recommendations
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-3% for the 1000ppm solution. It should be added in the final step below 40°C, and the final formula pH should be between 4.5-7.4. Avoid using Disodium EDTA in the formula.
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 5%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-5%. Add in the final step below 40°C. Shake before use.
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) 8%: The recommended usage rate for Matrixyl 3000 is typically 3-5%. Using 8% is higher than recommended and might not provide additional benefits or could affect formula stability or feel. It should be added in the final step below 40°C.
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 3-10%. Add in the final step below 40°C. The formula pH should be between 3.5-6.5.
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%: The recommended usage rate is 1-10%, with 3% being typically recommended. Using 5% is at the higher end and might cause skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Add in the final step below 40°C.
- Wrinkle-Lax™ 0.5%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.3-0.5%. It is a powder soluble in water. Avoid heating above 60°C.
- Quick-Coll® 2%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.1-2%. Add in the final step below 40°C.
- Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) 2%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-2%. This ingredient is a powder that needs to be mixed into the oil phase and heated to 80-85°C to dissolve before combining with the water phase.
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-10%. It can be mixed in several steps and withstands heat up to 80°C. It has a characteristic odor that can be masked with fragrance or absorbed with Odor-Kill.
- Phospholipid 5%: The recommended usage rate is 0.5-3%. Using 5% is higher than recommended. This ingredient is a powder that needs to be dispersed in both water and oil phases at room temperature (below 40°C) and requires high-speed blending (at least 1000 rpm for 15 minutes) to incorporate properly. It also requires both water and oil in the formula.
- Odor-Kill™ 1%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.3-3%. Mix into the water phase, avoiding heat above 50°C. Note that it will absorb odors, including any fragrance in the formula.
- 1,3-Propanediol 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-20%. It can be mixed in several steps.
- Glycerin Gel 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-20%. Mix by adding water to the gel and blending.
- Mild Preserved Eco™ 1%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.5-2.0% for general cosmetics. It should be added in the last step when the formula has a gel or cream texture. It can withstand heat up to 80°C for a short time and is effective in a pH range of 4-9.
- Water 34.5%: Used as the base.
Mixing Considerations
Creating this formula requires careful attention to the mixing instructions and temperature sensitivities of the ingredients:
- Combine water, 1,3-Propanediol, and Glycerin Gel, blending until homogeneous.
- Prepare the oil phase (if using one for DPHP). Heat the oil phase to 80-85°C to dissolve DPHP. Allow to cool below 40°C.
- Disperse Phospholipid in either the water phase, oil phase, or combined phases (below 40°C) with high-speed blending (1000+ rpm for 15+ minutes) as per the product instructions. Ensure both water and oil are present for proper incorporation.
- Add DMI and Odor-Kill™ to the appropriate phase, respecting their temperature limits (DMI up to 80°C, Odor-Kill™ up to 50°C).
- Combine the water and oil phases (if separate) and mix until emulsified.
- Once the main base is formed and the temperature is below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients: Copper Peptide, Pep®-Coll, Matrixyl 3000, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, DMAE, Wrinkle-Lax™, and Quick-Coll®.
- Add Mild Preserved Eco™ in the final step.
- Adjust the final pH to be within the acceptable range for Copper Peptide (4.5-7.4) and Argireline (3.5-6.5), ideally targeting a pH between 4.5 and 6.5.
While the formula is possible, you may want to consider reducing the percentages of Matrixyl 3000 and Phospholipid to their recommended maximums (5% and 3% respectively) and potentially reducing DMAE if skin sensitivity is a concern. Always perform a stability test and a small batch test before making a large quantity.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
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Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
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Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
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DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
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Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP)
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Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
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Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
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Phospholipid
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Quick-Coll®
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Odor-Kill™
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Glycerin Gel (Glyceryl Polyacrylate)
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Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
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