Feasibility of Serum Formulation with Multiple Peptides and Actives

Asked by: joelfonat On: April 01, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can the following serum formulation be made?

  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 5%
  • Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) 8%
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 10%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%
  • Wrinkle-Lax™ 0.5%
  • Quick-Coll® 2%
  • Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) 2%
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
  • Phospholipid 5%
  • Odor-Kill 1%
  • 1,3-Propanediol 10%
  • Glycerin Gel 10%
  • Water 34.5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1%

Answer

Cosmetic Formula Feasibility

Regarding the cosmetic formula you provided, it is generally possible to create, but there are a few points to consider regarding the recommended usage rates and mixing procedures for some ingredients.

Ingredient Analysis and Recommendations

  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-3% for the 1000ppm solution. It should be added in the final step below 40°C, and the final formula pH should be between 4.5-7.4. Avoid using Disodium EDTA in the formula.
  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 5%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-5%. Add in the final step below 40°C. Shake before use.
  • Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) 8%: The recommended usage rate for Matrixyl 3000 is typically 3-5%. Using 8% is higher than recommended and might not provide additional benefits or could affect formula stability or feel. It should be added in the final step below 40°C.
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 3-10%. Add in the final step below 40°C. The formula pH should be between 3.5-6.5.
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%: The recommended usage rate is 1-10%, with 3% being typically recommended. Using 5% is at the higher end and might cause skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Add in the final step below 40°C.
  • Wrinkle-Lax™ 0.5%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.3-0.5%. It is a powder soluble in water. Avoid heating above 60°C.
  • Quick-Coll® 2%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.1-2%. Add in the final step below 40°C.
  • Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) 2%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-2%. This ingredient is a powder that needs to be mixed into the oil phase and heated to 80-85°C to dissolve before combining with the water phase.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-10%. It can be mixed in several steps and withstands heat up to 80°C. It has a characteristic odor that can be masked with fragrance or absorbed with Odor-Kill.
  • Phospholipid 5%: The recommended usage rate is 0.5-3%. Using 5% is higher than recommended. This ingredient is a powder that needs to be dispersed in both water and oil phases at room temperature (below 40°C) and requires high-speed blending (at least 1000 rpm for 15 minutes) to incorporate properly. It also requires both water and oil in the formula.
  • Odor-Kill™ 1%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.3-3%. Mix into the water phase, avoiding heat above 50°C. Note that it will absorb odors, including any fragrance in the formula.
  • 1,3-Propanediol 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-20%. It can be mixed in several steps.
  • Glycerin Gel 10%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 1-20%. Mix by adding water to the gel and blending.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ 1%: This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.5-2.0% for general cosmetics. It should be added in the last step when the formula has a gel or cream texture. It can withstand heat up to 80°C for a short time and is effective in a pH range of 4-9.
  • Water 34.5%: Used as the base.

Mixing Considerations

Creating this formula requires careful attention to the mixing instructions and temperature sensitivities of the ingredients:

  1. Combine water, 1,3-Propanediol, and Glycerin Gel, blending until homogeneous.
  2. Prepare the oil phase (if using one for DPHP). Heat the oil phase to 80-85°C to dissolve DPHP. Allow to cool below 40°C.
  3. Disperse Phospholipid in either the water phase, oil phase, or combined phases (below 40°C) with high-speed blending (1000+ rpm for 15+ minutes) as per the product instructions. Ensure both water and oil are present for proper incorporation.
  4. Add DMI and Odor-Kill™ to the appropriate phase, respecting their temperature limits (DMI up to 80°C, Odor-Kill™ up to 50°C).
  5. Combine the water and oil phases (if separate) and mix until emulsified.
  6. Once the main base is formed and the temperature is below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients: Copper Peptide, Pep®-Coll, Matrixyl 3000, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, DMAE, Wrinkle-Lax™, and Quick-Coll®.
  7. Add Mild Preserved Eco™ in the final step.
  8. Adjust the final pH to be within the acceptable range for Copper Peptide (4.5-7.4) and Argireline (3.5-6.5), ideally targeting a pH between 4.5 and 6.5.

While the formula is possible, you may want to consider reducing the percentages of Matrixyl 3000 and Phospholipid to their recommended maximums (5% and 3% respectively) and potentially reducing DMAE if skin sensitivity is a concern. Always perform a stability test and a small batch test before making a large quantity.