Feedback on DIY Skincare Formulas (Face & Body) - Simple Recipes without pH Adjustment

Asked by: nattanon_ph On: May 27, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am 25 years old and would like feedback on several DIY skincare formulas I've designed for my face and body. My goal is to create simple recipes that do not require pH adjustment.

My skin concerns are:

  • Face: Oily but dehydrated, with small fine lines on the forehead and a feeling of lack of firmness.
  • Body: Very dry and flaky.

I have designed the following formulas using Xanthan Gum 1% as the base thickener for all:

Face Exfoliation:

  • willow bark 10%
  • xanthan gum 1%

Body Exfoliation:

  • AHA 10%
  • xanthan gum 1%

Body Whitening:

  • vit c 15%
  • xanthan gum 1%

Face Whitening:

  • licorice extract 1%
  • glucosamine 4 %
  • B3 4%
  • xanthan gum 1%

Anti-aging:

  • argireline 5%
  • matrixyl3000 5%
  • xanthan gam 1%

Body Moisture (Option 1):

  • amoni acid 5%
  • sodium lactate plus 10%
  • xanthan gam 1%

Body Moisture (Option 2):

  • sodium lactate 5%
  • sodium PCA 10%
  • urea 5%
  • xanthan gam 1%

Face Moisture:

  • HA(nano) 1%
  • HA(standard) 1%
  • xanthan gam 1%

Nourishing (Face/Body?):

  • hydrdyzed rice protein 5%
  • beta glucan 1%
  • calendula extract 5%
  • b5 5%
  • green tea 5%
  • homeostatine 3%
  • centella asiatica 5%
  • xanthan gam 1%

Additionally, for the body moisture formula, can I add DMAE? If so, at what percentage?

Please review these formulas and advise on their feasibility, suitability for my skin type, and whether they truly do not require pH adjustment as I intend.

Answer

Hello! I understand you're looking for feedback on your DIY skincare formulas for your face and body, aiming for simple recipes that don't require pH adjustment. You mentioned your skin concerns: oily and dehydrated face with fine lines and lack of firmness, and very dry, flaky body skin. You are 25 years old.

I've noted the previous conversation, including your current product usage and the staff's valuable advice about addressing skin imbalance, which is indeed important.

Let's review each of your proposed formulas based on simplicity, the need for pH adjustment, and suitability for your skin type:

  • Face Exfoliation (willow bark 10% + xanthan gum 1%): This formula is relatively simple. Willow bark extract has mild exfoliating and soothing properties. While its effectiveness can be pH-dependent, it's less critical than AHA/BHA, and you might not need strict pH adjustment. However, its exfoliating power might be milder compared to dedicated AHA/BHA products.

  • Body Exfoliation (AHA 10% + xanthan gum 1%): AHA at 10% is an effective concentration for exfoliation. However, AHAs require pH adjustment to a low pH (typically below 4) for both efficacy and safety. This formula directly contradicts your goal of avoiding pH adjustment.

  • Body Whitening (vit c 15% + xanthan gum 1%): Vitamin C (likely Ascorbic Acid) at 15% is effective for brightening. However, Ascorbic Acid requires pH adjustment to a very low pH (typically below 3.5) for stability and skin penetration. It is also prone to oxidation. This formula contradicts your goal of avoiding pH adjustment and requires careful consideration for stability.

  • Face Whitening (licorice extract 1% + glucosamine 4% + B3 4% + xanthan gum 1%): This is a very good combination of well-known brightening ingredients (Licorice, N-acetyl glucosamine, Niacinamide). The concentrations are appropriate. These ingredients are generally stable at neutral to slightly acidic pH, which might not require strict pH adjustment depending on your base water. This formula is relatively simple and suitable for your face concerns.

  • Anti-aging (argireline 5% + matrixyl3000 5% + xanthan gum 1%): This is a good combination of anti-aging peptides. The concentrations are appropriate. These peptides are generally stable at neutral pH and likely won't require pH adjustment. This formula is relatively simple and suitable for addressing fine lines and lack of firmness.

  • Body Moisture (Option 1: amino acid 5% + sodium lactate plus 10% + xanthan gum 1%): This is a good blend of NMF components for hydration. The concentrations are appropriate. These ingredients are generally stable at neutral pH and likely won't require pH adjustment. This formula is relatively simple and suitable for dry skin.

  • Body Moisture (Option 2: sodium lactate 5% + sodium PCA 10% + urea 5% + xanthan gum 1%): This is an excellent blend of NMF components, especially with Urea, which is highly effective for very dry, flaky skin. The concentrations are appropriate. These ingredients are generally stable at neutral pH and likely won't require pH adjustment. This formula is relatively simple and very suitable for your very dry, flaky body skin.

  • Question about DMAE in body moisture formula: You can add DMAE, typically at concentrations of 1-3%. DMAE is alkaline, and adding it will likely increase the pH of your formula. If you want to maintain a skin-compatible pH (around 5.5) or ensure compatibility with other ingredients, you might need to measure and adjust the pH. Adding DMAE makes the formula slightly less simple.

  • Face Moisture (HA(nano) 1% + HA(standard) 1% + xanthan gum 1%): This is a good blend of Hyaluronic Acid for hydration. The concentrations are appropriate. HA is generally stable at slightly acidic to neutral pH and likely won't require pH adjustment. This formula is relatively simple and suitable for your dehydrated face skin.

  • Nourishing (hydrolyzed rice protein 5% + beta glucan 1% + calendula extract 5% + b5 5% + green tea 5% + homeostatine 3% + centella asiatica 5% + xanthan gum 1%): This formula contains many good ingredients for various benefits. However, it is not considered a simple formula due to the number of components. Combining many extracts might also make the final pH less predictable, although many are stable at neutral pH.

Summary:

Based on your goals of simplicity and avoiding pH adjustment, the formulas that seem most feasible are:

  • Face Whitening (Formula 4)
  • Anti-aging (Formula 5)
  • Body Moisture (Option 1 or 2, Formulas 6 & 7)
  • Face Moisture (Formula 9)

The Body Exfoliation (AHA, Formula 2) and Body Whitening (Vit C, Formula 3) formulas will require pH adjustment for efficacy and stability, contradicting your goal.

The Face Exfoliation (Willow Bark, Formula 1) is simple and likely doesn't strictly require pH adjustment, but its exfoliating effect might be mild.

The complex Nourishing formula (Formula 10) is not simple.

Adding DMAE to a moisture formula is possible but might necessitate pH adjustment.

I recommend starting with one or two formulas that target your primary concerns, perhaps the face formulas for hydration/whitening/anti-aging and the body moisture formula (Option 2 is great for very dry skin). Observe how your skin responds, and continue to consider the staff's advice about balancing your skin through your overall routine.

If you decide to work with ingredients like AHA or Vitamin C in the future, learning about pH measurement and adjustment will be necessary.