Serum Formulation Feedback

Thank you for sharing your serum formulation idea. It contains several beneficial active ingredients. Based on the ingredients and their properties, here is some feedback and suggestions for improvement:

Potential Issues and Suggestions

1. Salicylic Acid Type and Thickener Incompatibility: The most significant issue is the potential incompatibility between the chosen Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) and Satin Cream Maker. The description for this type of Salicylic Acid explicitly states it is incompatible with Satin Mousse (which is similar to Satin Cream Maker). Using these together will likely prevent the serum from thickening properly or cause instability.

   • Suggestion: You should replace the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) with a type suitable for leave-on products, such as ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) or Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble). These are powder forms that are water-soluble and designed for leave-on applications.
   • Suggestion: Even with a different type of Salicylic Acid, compatibility with Satin Cream Maker needs to be tested. If incompatibility persists or the texture is unstable, you may need to choose a different thickening system that is compatible with your chosen Salicylic Acid and the other ingredients (especially electrolytes like Tranexamic Acid and 4MSK).

2. Salicylic Acid Concentration: You are using 4% of the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) product. This product contains 30% active Salicylic Acid, meaning your formula has about 1.2% active Salicylic Acid. If you switch to ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid or Complex Salicylic Acid (which are powder forms, typically 100% active), using 4% would result in 4% active Salicylic Acid, which exceeds the typical over-the-counter limit of 2% active Salicylic Acid.

   • Suggestion: If using ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid or Complex Salicylic Acid, reduce the percentage to 1-2% to stay within the common usage rate for active Salicylic Acid in cosmetic products.

3. Tranexamic Acid Stability: Tranexamic Acid can be prone to discoloration over time.

   • Suggestion: It is recommended to add 0.5% ActiveProtec™ OX to the water phase along with the Tranexamic Acid to help prevent this issue and maintain formula stability.

4. 4MSK and Texture: While Satin Cream Maker is electrolyte resistant, 4MSK is an electrolyte and can potentially affect the viscosity of the formula, especially in combination with other electrolytes and actives.

   • Suggestion: Monitor the texture and stability of the final product carefully. If thinning occurs, adjusting the Satin Cream Maker percentage or using a different thickener might be necessary.

5. Ceramide Complex Mixing: For best dispersion of Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder), it should be mixed into the water phase first.

   • Suggestion: Ensure Ceramide Complex is fully dispersed in the distilled water before adding other ingredients.

6. Jasmine Flower Extract: The Jasmine Flower Extract is primarily for fragrance and marketing purposes and is not expected to provide significant skin benefits.

   • Note: You can keep it if you like the scent, but don't rely on it for active effects.

7. Overall Active Concentration and pH: Your formula contains a high concentration of various active ingredients. While many individual percentages are within recommended ranges, the combined effect should be considered. The optimal pH range for the actives varies (Safe-B3 4.0-7.0, Tranexamic Acid 3-8). Salicylic Acid efficacy is pH dependent (lower pH is more effective but potentially more irritating).

   • Suggestion: After formulating, check the final pH and adjust it to a range that balances the efficacy and stability of all actives (e.g., pH 4-6). Compatibility and stability testing are crucial for complex formulas like this.
   • Suggestion: Due to the high concentration of actives, it is highly recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before full application to check for irritation.

Recommended Mixing Order (General Guideline)

1. Disperse Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder) in distilled water until fully dissolved/dispersed.
2. Add Tranexamic Acid, 4MSK, Safe-B3, Skin-Barrier™, and Jasmine Flower Extract to the water phase. If using ActiveProtec™ OX, add it here as well. Stir until dissolved.
3. Add Satin Cream Maker to the water phase and mix according to the manufacturer's instructions to create the desired texture. Avoid high-speed mixing.
4. Add Mild Preserved Eco as the final ingredient and mix gently.
5. Check and adjust the pH if necessary.

By addressing the incompatibility issue with the Salicylic Acid and thickener, and considering the suggestions for stability and mixing, you can create a more stable and effective serum.