Fixing Lumpy Texture in Cream Formulation

Asked by: sung91991 On: December 18, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Hello, I have a question about a cream formulation I'm experimenting with.

The formula I tested is:

1. Glyceryl Glucoside 3.03 g
2. Ethanol 2.03 g
3. Aristoflex AVC 2.00 g
4. Fractionated Coconut Oil 6.01 g
5. Wax Cream Maker 19.25 g
6. Distilled Water 65.04 g
7. Preservative 2.00 g

I separated the ingredients into two phases, a water phase and an oil phase, and used heat in the experiment. I then combined the two phases. The final step was adding the preservative. However, the resulting cream texture is not smooth; it's lumpy. How can I fix the cream texture to make it smooth and nice?

Answer

How to Achieve a Smooth Cream Texture

  1. Prepare Phases Separately:

    • Water Phase: Combine Distilled Water, Glyceryl Glucoside, and Aristoflex AVC. Heat this phase to around 70-75°C. Ensure Aristoflex AVC is fully dispersed.
    • Oil Phase: Combine Fractionated Coconut Oil and Wax Cream Maker. Heat this phase to around 70-75°C until the Wax Cream Maker is completely melted and the phase is clear.
  2. Combine Phases Correctly: This is a critical step.

    • Slowly pour the heated water phase into the heated oil phase.
    • Immediately begin mixing with a high-shear mixer (like a stick blender or homogenizer) at high speed. Mix continuously for 2-3 minutes at this temperature to ensure a stable emulsion forms.
  3. Stir During Cooling:

    • Switch to medium-speed mixing (you can use a regular mixer or continue with the stick blender intermittently) and continue stirring as the emulsion cools.
    • Continuous stirring during cooling is essential to prevent the wax from crystallizing unevenly and creating lumps.
    • Keep stirring until the mixture cools down significantly, ideally below 40-45°C.
  4. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients:

    • Once the emulsion has cooled below 40-45°C, add the Ethanol and the Preservative.
    • Mix well to ensure they are fully incorporated.
  5. Final Mixing:

    • Continue stirring until the cream reaches room temperature and you achieve a smooth, uniform texture.

By ensuring thorough high-shear mixing when combining the phases and continuous stirring during the cooling process, you should be able to prevent the formation of lumps and achieve a smooth, stable cream.