Fixing White Streaks and Increasing Gloss in Face Cream Formulation
Question
I want to make a face cream, but the resulting cream leaves white streaks (soaping effect) when applied. Which ingredients should I reduce to fix this? Also, I would like the cream to have a glossy appearance; what should I add or remove to achieve that?
Current Formula:
Olive Oil: 1%Mineral Oil 26.: 2.5%ININ: 2.5%Stearic acid: 2%Stearyl alcohol: 0.5%Cetyl alcohol: 0.3%Cetearearyl alcohol: 3%Lexemul 561: 3.5%EDTA: 0.1%Glycerin: 2%Butylene glycol: 2%1-3 Propanediol: 1%Niacinamide B3: 4%Alpha Arbutin: 2%Panthenol B5: 1%Ethoxdiglycol: 2%Allantoin: 0.2%- Preservative: 1%
Answer
To address the issues of white streaks (soaping effect) and the lack of gloss in your face cream, here are the recommended adjustments:
1. Reducing White Streaks (Soaping Effect)
The white streaks occur when the cream is rubbed onto the skin, often caused by high concentrations of fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
- Reduce: Stearic Acid (from 2% to 1%) and Cetearyl Alcohol (from 3% to 1.5-2%). These ingredients provide thickness but are the primary cause of the soaping effect.
- Add: Dimethicone (Medium/350) at 1-2%. This is the most effective way to eliminate white streaks. It acts as a de-foaming agent, allowing the cream to spread smoothly without turning white.
2. Increasing Gloss and Shine
To make the cream look glossier and more professional:
- Add: Dimethicone also helps increase the surface gloss of the cream.
- Stirring Technique: Ensure you continue stirring the cream at a moderate speed until it has cooled down to room temperature. Rapid cooling without stirring can lead to a matte, uneven appearance.
- Emulsifier Balance: Using Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate (which replaces Lexemul 561) generally provides a nice shine when properly emulsified.
Recommended Ingredient Substitutions
- ININ: This ingredient is Isononyl Isononanoate. In our catalog, please use LipidSoft™ Lite, which provides the same light feel and properties.
- Lexemul 561: This is a blend of Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate. You can use the version available in our catalog to achieve the same emulsifying results.
Adjusted Formulation Suggestion
- Olive Oil: 1%
- Mineral Oil: 2.5%
- LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate): 2.5%
- Dimethicone (Medium/350): 1.5% (Added to fix streaks and add gloss)
- Stearic Acid: 1% (Reduced)
- Stearyl Alcohol: 0.5%
- Cetyl Alcohol: 0.3%
- Cetearyl Alcohol: 1.5% (Reduced)
- Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate: 3.5%
- Water and other actives (Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, etc.): Maintain as per your original formula.
By reducing the wax-like components and adding a small amount of silicone, the cream will spread much better, absorb without whitening, and have a noticeably glossier finish.
Related Products Mentioned
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
