Foam Pump Cleanser Formulation with Lauryl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid
คำถาม
I am developing a foam pump facial cleanser formula using the following ingredients:
- Lauryl Glucoside (5%)
- Salicylic Acid
- Polysorbate 80
- Water
- Propylene Glycol
My main concerns are:
- Will 5% Lauryl Glucoside alone provide sufficient foam quality (density and abundance) for a foam pump cleanser?
- How will the pH of a formula containing Lauryl Glucoside (which has a high pH) affect the stability and effectiveness of Salicylic Acid, especially in a wash-off product? Polysorbate 80 is included to help with Salicylic Acid solubility. I am more concerned about ease of use (good foaming from the pump) than skin feel.
คำตอบ
Formulating a Foam Pump Cleanser
Yes, it is possible to create a foam pump facial cleanser using surfactants available, such as Lauryl Glucoside and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. However, as discussed, the foam quality (density and abundance) will likely be less than formulas containing sulfates like Sodium Laureth Sulfate or foaming boosters like Cocamide DEA, which are not recommended due to safety concerns.
Regarding your proposed formula:
- Foaming with 5% Lauryl Glucoside: A 5% concentration of Lauryl Glucoside alone is generally not sufficient to produce abundant foam suitable for a foam pump, especially compared to sulfate-based cleansers. Lauryl Glucoside is a gentle, non-ionic surfactant but is not a primary foamer.
- Salicylic Acid Stability and Effectiveness: Lauryl Glucoside has a high pH (around 11.5). While your overall formula pH might be lower than 7, it may not be low enough (ideally pH 3.3-3.5 for optimal efficacy) for Salicylic Acid to be fully effective, especially in a wash-off product where contact time is brief. The Salicylic Acid will still contribute to pH adjustment and potentially act as a preservative, but its exfoliant/anti-acne properties might be limited. Polysorbate 80 can help with Salicylic Acid solubility but doesn't fully address the pH requirement for activity.
To improve foaming for a foam pump, adding Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a good approach. If you add 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, you would need to reduce the percentage of other ingredients to keep the total at 100%. You can reduce either the Water or the Propylene Glycol. Reducing Water is a common way to accommodate additional surfactants. Reducing Propylene Glycol is also an option and would primarily affect the skin feel and Salicylic Acid solubility vehicle.
Remember that using a proper foam pump bottle is essential for generating foam from the liquid formula.
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Cocamidopropyl Betaine