Foaming Cleanser Formulation for Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive Skin

Asked by: ommie.np On: April 10, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a liquid foaming cleanser for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin using the following formula:

  • Coco Wash™: 5%
  • Lauryl Glucoside: 5%
  • Creamy Foamer™: 10%
  • Glycerin: 10%
  • Propylene Glycol: 20%
  • Lactic Acid (90% solution): 3%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
  • Water: Remaining amount

Based on this, I have a few questions:

  1. Should any ingredient percentages be adjusted?
  2. Must any ingredients be added to make it suitable for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin?
  3. Will the resulting texture be liquid, suitable for a foaming pump bottle?
  4. The Creamy Foamer™ instructions mention dissolving it in an oil phase using heat (5-60°C). Does this formula contain an oil phase for this purpose, and how should I properly mix Creamy Foamer™?

Answer

Formula Review and Suggestions for Foaming Cleanser

Based on your goal to create a liquid foaming cleanser for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin, and the formula you've proposed, here's a review and some suggestions:

1. Should any ingredient percentages be adjusted?

Your proposed percentages for Coco Wash™ (5%), Lauryl Glucoside (5%), Creamy Foamer™ (10%), Glycerin (10%), Propylene Glycol (20%), Lactic Acid (3% of 90% solution), and Phenoxyethanol (0.5%) are generally suitable for a gentle foaming cleanser base. The staff's previous reply also confirms the formula is suitable. These concentrations provide a good balance of cleansing, foaming, hydration, and preservation.

2. Must any ingredients be added?

While the base formula is suitable, considering your skin type (acne-prone, sensitive), adding ingredients known for soothing and reducing irritation would be beneficial. Consider adding:

  • Allantoin (0.1-0.5%): Known for its soothing and anti-irritant properties, helps reduce redness and promote skin healing.
  • D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5) (1-3%): A humectant that helps moisturize, soothe, and support skin barrier function, beneficial for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
  • Natural Bisabolol (0.5-1%): Derived from chamomile, it has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.
  • Disodium EDTA (0.1-0.2%): A chelating agent that helps improve formula stability by binding metal ions in water.

Also, it is crucial to check and adjust the final pH of the formula. Lauryl Glucoside is alkaline, and while Lactic Acid is included, the final pH should be in the skin-friendly range of 5.5-6.5 for optimal gentleness and efficacy. You can use Lactic Acid or Citric Acid to lower the pH or Sodium Hydroxide to raise it, adding small amounts gradually and measuring with a pH meter until the desired range is reached.

3. Will the resulting texture be liquid?

Yes, with the proposed percentages and the remaining portion being water, the resulting product will be a liquid texture suitable for use with a foaming pump bottle.

4. Does the formula contain an oil phase for Creamy Foamer™?

Your formula includes Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate), which is derived from coconut oil and glycerin. While it has an oil-like component, it is designed to be water-soluble due to the PEG-7. It functions more as a gentle surfactant and emollient rather than a traditional oil phase (like a carrier oil). As advised by the staff, you should dissolve Creamy Foamer™ with the other surfactants (Coco Wash™ and Lauryl Glucoside) first before combining with the rest of the ingredients. Creamy Foamer™ can be dissolved in water, and warming slightly (below 50°C) can help.

By incorporating the suggested soothing and stabilizing ingredients and ensuring the correct pH, you can create a gentle and effective foaming cleanser for your skin type.