Foaming Facial Cleanser Formulation Advice

Regarding your interest in making a foaming facial cleanser in a pump bottle and modifying the formula you found, here is the advice:

Substituting the Base

Yes, you can use Sulfate-Free Foaming Base (Product ID: 8020) instead of Sulfate Free Shampoo Base (Product ID: 1107) in your formula. Both are sulfate-free bases suitable for facial cleansing and designed to create foam. The recommended usage rate for Sulfate-Free Foaming Base in facial cleansers is 15-20%, so using it at 20% as in the original formula is appropriate.

Adding Ingredients for Specific Benefits

Here are recommendations for adding ingredients to achieve the additional benefits you desire:

For Makeup Removal (Light Makeup)

To help remove light makeup, you can add MakeUp-Wash™ (Product ID: 373). This ingredient is specifically designed to form micelles in water, effectively dissolving makeup and dirt from pores gently without drying the skin. It is recommended to use MakeUp-Wash™ at a rate of 3-5% in a wash-off formula like a facial cleanser.

For Skin Brightening

For skin brightening, you have a couple of good water-soluble options that are suitable for a foaming cleanser:

• Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%) (Product ID: 7798): This extract contains Glabridin, known for its whitening and anti-irritation properties. Use at a rate of 1-2%. Add it in the final step of your formulation, avoiding heat.
• GlyciWhite™ (Product ID: 9679): This ingredient (Glycinamide HCL) helps counteract melanin production and is gentle on the skin. Use at a rate of 3-10% (5% is recommended). Mix it in the water phase, avoiding heat above 60°C.

Both can be effective. You could choose one or use both at lower concentrations if desired, keeping the total addition rate in mind.

For Anti-Aging (Age 50+)

For anti-aging benefits, especially for mature skin (50+), consider adding one or both of these ingredients:

• REGU®-AGE (Product ID: 211): This ingredient is known for strengthening the skin, reducing inflammation, and protecting from UV damage, which are beneficial for mature skin. It is water-soluble and used at a rate of 2-5%. Add it in the final step below 40°C, adjusting the formula pH to 5.0-8.0 (ideally 5-6.5).
• SerpinBlock™ (Product ID: 126132): This ingredient (Piperidinepropionic acid) targets a specific mechanism of skin aging by controlling the protein serpin b3, helping to rejuvenate damaged skin and promote firmness. It is water-soluble and used at a rate of 0.5-1%. Mix it in the water phase, avoiding heat. Note that it is best stored in a cool place (6-8°C).

Choose the ingredient(s) that best align with the specific anti-aging concerns you wish to address.

Important Notes:

• When adding new ingredients, always ensure they are compatible with the base and other ingredients in your formula.
• Add the recommended ingredients in the final step of your formulation process, especially those sensitive to heat.
• Adjust the percentage of water accordingly to keep the total formula at 100%.
• Always perform a small test batch first to check for compatibility, stability, and desired performance before making a larger batch.

By incorporating these ingredients, you can customize your foaming facial cleanser to provide makeup removal, brightening, and anti-aging benefits.