Follow-up on Skin Barrier Recovery Formula: Stinging, Separation, Dryness, and Preservatives
Question
Following up on the formula provided in the thread 'Inquiry about Sea Kelp Bioferment': น้ำ + ceramide complex 10-20% + licorice extract 1% + allantoin 0.2% + beta glucan 5-10%. I have some additional questions based on my experience and the previous discussion:
- Why does my face sting after cleansing/washing?
- Can the separated cream still be used?
- Will the dry/tight feeling on my cheeks/chin disappear?
- What is the minimum suitable preservative level (Phenoxyethanol)?
Answer
Thank you very much for sharing your detailed experience in making and testing your cream formulations, as well as the valuable discussion with C7, jaojang, and the Staff team. This is very beneficial for others who are learning about this topic.
From your review and the discussion, it can be summarized that:
- The first formula had issues with pimples, possibly due to Triethanolamine or other ingredients.
- Formulas 2 and 3 caused stinging upon application and dry/tight skin, with B3 and Phenoxyethanol suspected as causes.
- Adjusting pH and reducing Phenoxyethanol in formula 4 helped reduce stinging and the morning pore issue.
- Formula 4 experienced separation and still had some dry/tight feeling in certain areas.
Regarding the additional questions you asked:
- Stinging after cleansing/washing: As C7 advised, this stinging might be related to other products you are using, which could be causing skin irritation or weakening the skin barrier. When the skin is weakened, applying some creams can cause a stinging sensation. This might improve as your skin strengthens, but the key is to identify and avoid the source of irritation from other products you are using.
- Can the separated cream still be used: C7 confirmed that it can be used by shaking it before each application, but the mixture will separate very quickly. Increasing Pro Polymer as C7 suggested (around 0.7-1% if DMAE is present) will help stabilize the cream and prevent separation.
- Will the dry/tight feeling on cheeks/chin disappear: This feeling might improve as your skin strengthens. However, as C7 pointed out, it's possible that the current formula doesn't contain enough moisturizing ingredients for your skin type. If the feeling persists, you might need to consider adding more moisture-focused ingredients or ingredients that help balance the skin.
- Minimum suitable preservative level: C7 mentioned that it's difficult to give an exact percentage as it depends on the cleanliness of the mixing process. However, they believe that Phenoxyethanol at 0.5% should generally not cause irritation, except in cases of direct allergy or severely weakened skin. The Staff team recommended Eye Preserved™ as a gentler alternative or using it in combination with a lower amount of Phenoxyethanol.
The important point emphasized by C7 is the recovery of skin that has been exposed to steroids, which requires time and patience. Using a simple formula focused on nourishing and strengthening the skin barrier during this period is a very good approach.
I wish you the best with trying the new formula recommended by C7. I hope it helps restore your skin's strength. If you have any further questions or would like to share your results, you are always welcome!