Follow-up Questions on Multiple Cosmetic Formulas

Asked by: siranant.pooliam On: June 28, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am seeking further advice on several cosmetic formulas I am developing, based on previous guidance received. I want to ensure the formulas are suitable before ordering ingredients.

Here are my specific questions regarding each formula:

Formula 1: Salicylic Acid (BHA) Face Peeling Toner

  • Based on the Staff's correction from Polycarbonate 20 to Polysorbate 20 and the confirmation that the formula is OK, should I keep Polysorbate 20 at 3%?

Formula 2: Corn, Wart, Mole, Freckle Removal Cream

  • Regarding the Staff's advice to avoid continuous use for too long as it thins the skin and to observe daily how much it has peeled, what is the recommended continuous application duration (weeks/months)? My plan is to apply it until the wart/mole/freckle is gone, and then use scar cream to treat the resulting mark. Is this approach correct?
  • I plan to make a version of this cream for a friend who has very sensitive feet with 3-4 corns on each foot. They experience pain walking long distances and need special soft shoes. Is this formula suitable for sensitive feet?

Formula 3: Stretch Mark and Scar Treatment Cream

  • The Staff advised that l-ascorbic acid should be removed as it's not suitable for direct mixing in water. Should I replace l-ascorbic acid with another ingredient, or remove it entirely without replacement?

Formula 6: Hair Root Serum / Shampoo

  • I am formulating a shampoo and serum for my husband, who has a dry and sensitive scalp and reacts to many commercial shampoos (like Dove, Head & Shoulders, Pantene), although Nizoral is tolerated but not for continuous use. He dislikes fruity/floral/perfumed scents.
  • I have already ordered a mild surfactant for the shampoo but it is not Lauryl Sulfate or Coco-betaine. I will check the ingredient I have. For future formulations, the Staff recommended Cationic Guar as an alternative to silicone for hair weight and hold after rinsing. They also suggested Vitamin B5, Hydro Protein, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, or oils like argan oil for hair health, noting that these are more effective in hair masks than shampoos due to rinsing.
  • Could you provide more details on the properties of the ingredients recommended by the Staff (Cationic Guar, Vitamin B5, Hydro Protein, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, argan oil)? I plan to research their properties and calculate appropriate percentages before asking for further advice on the formula. I am also interested in creating a hair mask formula.

Formula 7: Face Peeling Cream

  • The Staff mentioned concern about Beta Glucan stability at low pH (below 5), potentially conflicting with Lactic Acid's optimal pH (below 4). Should I remove Beta Glucan completely from this formula?
  • The Staff suggested Vitamin B3 and Vitamin B5 as acid-tolerant moisturizing agents (tolerating around pH 4.0). Is Rose Hip Oil alone sufficient for moisture, or should I add one of these vitamins? If I increase the percentage of Rose Hip Oil (currently 5%), would it make the cream too sticky? The Staff advised testing it myself, but I'd like your opinion on the potential for stickiness at higher concentrations.

Thank you for your continued guidance. I'm pleased that the serum I previously formulated based on your advice has shown good results, making my skin brighter, smoother, softer, and firmer, with makeup adhering well throughout the day.

Answer

Hello,

I understand you're seeking further advice on the formulas you've drafted to ensure they are suitable before ordering ingredients. I will provide information based on your questions, referencing the previous advice from the Staff and general knowledge about the ingredients.

Here are the answers to your questions:

Formula 1: Salicylic Acid (BHA) Face Peeling Toner
You asked if Polysorbate 20 should remain at 3%.
Based on the Staff's correction from Polycarbonate 20 to Polysorbate 20 and the statement "สูตร ok แล้วค่ะ" (The formula is OK), it indicates that the 3% concentration of Polysorbate 20 in this formula is considered appropriate.

Formula 2: Corn, Wart, Mole, Freckle Removal Cream
You asked about the continuous application duration (weeks/months) and confirmed your plan to apply until the wart/mole/freckle is gone, then use scar cream.
The Staff advised "ห้ามใช้ต่อเนื่องติดต่อกันนานเกินไปค่ะ เพราะจะทำให้ผิวบางลงเรื่อยๆ" (Do not use continuously for too long as it will thin the skin) and to "คอยสังเกตุทุกวันว่าลอกแค่ไหนแล้ว" (Observe daily how much it has peeled). This means you should stop applying the cream once the corn, wart, or spot has come off. The duration will vary depending on the individual and the specific spot, so observing the results is key rather than sticking to a fixed period like weeks or months. Applying scar cream afterward is an appropriate approach.

Formula 3: Stretch Mark and Scar Treatment Cream
You asked if L-ascorbic acid should be replaced or removed entirely.
The Staff provided clear advice: "l-ascorbic acid ควรตัดทิ้งค่ะ" (L-ascorbic acid should be cut) because it is not suitable for direct mixing in water. If you wish to add other ingredients to help with stretch marks and scars, you might consider ingredients the Staff mentioned as suitable for this formula, such as Rose Hip Oil (you can increase the amount up to 10-15% if you want to focus on stretch marks/scars) and Shea butter, which is highly effective for moisturizing and helping with stretch marks.

Formula 6: Hair Root Serum
You are looking for alternatives to silicone for shine and weight, and ingredients for healthy hair, suitable for a dry and sensitive scalp (your husband's issue).
The Staff recommended Cationic Guar to help give hair weight and adhere to the hair better than silicone in terms of conditioning that lasts after rinsing. For truly improving hair health, the Staff suggested ingredients used in hair masks, such as Vitamin B5, Hydro Protein, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, or hair oils like Argan oil.
For your husband's dry and sensitive scalp, the Staff recommended using extra mild surfactants like Lauryl Sulfate or Coco-betaine in shampoo formulations and adjusting the pH to 5-6. Using the conditioning ingredients mentioned above (Vitamin B5, Argan oil) can also help nourish the scalp. Finding the right ingredients for a sensitive scalp may require some trial and error.

Formula 7: Face Peeling Cream
You asked if Beta Glucan should be removed due to potential conflict with Lactic Acid's pH, and if Rose Hip Oil alone is sufficient for moisture or if another ingredient should be added, and if increasing Rose Hip Oil percentage (above 5%) would make it too sticky.
The Staff explained the concern about Beta Glucan's stability at low pH (below 5), which might conflict with the optimal pH for Lactic Acid (below 4). Removing Beta Glucan from this formula is therefore a reasonable option to avoid this issue.
For moisturizing ingredients, the Staff suggested Vitamin B3 and Vitamin B5 as active ingredients that are relatively acid-tolerant (tolerating around pH 4.0), which could be options for adding moisture to a formula containing Lactic Acid.
Rose Hip Oil itself has high moisturizing properties. Increasing the amount above 5% to enhance moisture is possible. However, the feeling of stickiness varies depending on individual skin type and preference. The Staff recommended testing the formula yourself to see how it feels.

I'm glad to hear that the serum you formulated yourself has yielded good results and improved your skin's appearance! It shows your dedication and effort in learning and experimenting with different formulations.

If you have any further questions about specific ingredients or would like to search for basic information about them, please feel free to ask. I will do my best to use the available tools to find the information for you.

Tags

Formulation Adjustment Hair Treatment Peeling Effect Scar Treatment Sensitive Skin