Formula Adjustment for Melasma Treatment
Asked by: yuvared_aew
On: March 25, 2019
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Could you please advise on adjusting the following formula for treating melasma?
- Rice Vitamin Inositol 2%
- Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
- Papaya Enzyme 1%
- Phospholipid 1%
- Mild Preserved Eco 1%
- Sugar Gel 1%
- Water 60%
What changes should be made?
Answer
Suggested Formula Adjustment for Melasma
The formula you provided contains some good moisturizing and skin-conditioning ingredients, but to effectively target melasma, it would benefit from the addition of active ingredients known for their melanin-inhibiting properties. Here are some suggested adjustments:
Issues with the Original Formula
- Missing Key Actives: The original formula lacks potent ingredients specifically targeting melanin production, which is the root cause of melasma.
- Sugar Gel Usage: Sugar Gel is typically used to create oil gels or cleansing gels. In a water-based formula like this (60% water), it is not the appropriate thickener or gelling agent.
Revised Formula Suggestion
To enhance the melasma-reducing efficacy, consider replacing the Sugar Gel and adjusting the water phase to incorporate the following ingredients:
- Water: 83%
- Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8): 2% (Maintains skin moisture balance)
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: 2% (Provides hydration)
- Papaya Enzyme (Papain): 1% (Helps with gentle exfoliation and skin renewal. Note: Ensure the formula pH is between 5.5-7.0 for optimal enzyme activity and avoid heating above 40°C during mixing.)
- Phospholipid: 1% (Aids in ingredient penetration and supports the skin barrier)
- Mild Preserved Eco™: 1% (Provides essential preservation for the formula)
- Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 2% (A highly effective skin brightener that inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin production. Note: Best efficacy at pH 3.5-6.5. Avoid pH above 8.)
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3% (Helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and melasma by interfering with the melanin synthesis pathway.)
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5% (Offers multiple benefits, including reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the skin barrier, and providing anti-inflammatory effects. Can be used up to 10% for enhanced benefits.)
Explanation of Changes
- Sugar Gel Removal: Replaced with water as it's not suitable for this type of formula.
- Addition of Melasma Actives: Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, and Safe-B3™ are added at effective concentrations to directly target melasma and hyperpigmentation.
- Adjusted Water: The water percentage is increased to accommodate the new active ingredients while keeping the total formula at 100%.
This revised formula combines hydration, skin barrier support, gentle exfoliation, and powerful melanin inhibitors to provide a more comprehensive approach to reducing melasma.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Cosmetics
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Cosmetics
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Cosmetics
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Cosmetics
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Cosmetics
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)
Cosmetics
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Cosmetics
Phospholipid
Cosmetics