Formula Adjustment for Melasma Treatment

Asked by: yuvared_aew On: March 25, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please advise on adjusting the following formula for treating melasma?

  • Rice Vitamin Inositol 2%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
  • Papaya Enzyme 1%
  • Phospholipid 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Sugar Gel 1%
  • Water 60%

What changes should be made?

Answer

Suggested Formula Adjustment for Melasma

The formula you provided contains some good moisturizing and skin-conditioning ingredients, but to effectively target melasma, it would benefit from the addition of active ingredients known for their melanin-inhibiting properties. Here are some suggested adjustments:

Issues with the Original Formula

  • Missing Key Actives: The original formula lacks potent ingredients specifically targeting melanin production, which is the root cause of melasma.
  • Sugar Gel Usage: Sugar Gel is typically used to create oil gels or cleansing gels. In a water-based formula like this (60% water), it is not the appropriate thickener or gelling agent.

Revised Formula Suggestion

To enhance the melasma-reducing efficacy, consider replacing the Sugar Gel and adjusting the water phase to incorporate the following ingredients:

  • Water: 83%
  • Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8): 2% (Maintains skin moisture balance)
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 2% (Provides hydration)
  • Papaya Enzyme (Papain): 1% (Helps with gentle exfoliation and skin renewal. Note: Ensure the formula pH is between 5.5-7.0 for optimal enzyme activity and avoid heating above 40°C during mixing.)
  • Phospholipid: 1% (Aids in ingredient penetration and supports the skin barrier)
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: 1% (Provides essential preservation for the formula)
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 2% (A highly effective skin brightener that inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin production. Note: Best efficacy at pH 3.5-6.5. Avoid pH above 8.)
  • Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3% (Helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and melasma by interfering with the melanin synthesis pathway.)
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5% (Offers multiple benefits, including reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the skin barrier, and providing anti-inflammatory effects. Can be used up to 10% for enhanced benefits.)

Explanation of Changes

  • Sugar Gel Removal: Replaced with water as it's not suitable for this type of formula.
  • Addition of Melasma Actives: Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, and Safe-B3™ are added at effective concentrations to directly target melasma and hyperpigmentation.
  • Adjusted Water: The water percentage is increased to accommodate the new active ingredients while keeping the total formula at 100%.

This revised formula combines hydration, skin barrier support, gentle exfoliation, and powerful melanin inhibitors to provide a more comprehensive approach to reducing melasma.