Formula Analysis and Suggestions for Serum with Activated Resorcinol

Asked by: nu_tp.pp On: April 03, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have created a cosmetic formula and would like to request analysis and suggestions for improvement. Here is the formula:

  1. Pro Polymer 1%
  2. Avocado Oil 9%
  3. Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  4. น้ำกลั่น 73.8%
  5. Activated Resorcinol 1%
  6. Natural Bisabolol 1%
  7. Vitamin B3 (safe-niaciamide) 4%
  8. GlucoBright 4%
  9. Allantoin 0.2%
  10. Glycerin 5%

Please provide feedback and suggestions for this formula.

Answer

Formula Analysis and Suggestions

Thank you for providing your cosmetic formula. It contains a good combination of active ingredients targeting skin brightening, soothing, and hydration.

Here is an analysis of your formula and some suggestions for improvement:

  • Active Ingredients: The formula includes several effective actives like Activated Resorcinol, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Natural Bisabolol, Allantoin, and Glycerin. The combination of Vitamin B3 and GlucoBright is known to work well together for whitening. Including Natural Bisabolol is beneficial to help soothe the skin, especially when using Activated Resorcinol at the maximum recommended rate.

  • Emulsification: Your formula contains 9% Avocado Oil and a significant water phase (Purified Water, Glycerin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, Allantoin). While Pro Polymer can help thicken and provide some texture in water-oil formulas, it is primarily a gel maker and not a dedicated emulsifier. To ensure the oil and water phases remain stably mixed over time and do not separate, it is highly recommended to add a suitable emulsifier or Cream Maker to your formula.

  • Activated Resorcinol Stability: Activated Resorcinol is sensitive to light and can discolor. The product description recommends adding Disodium EDTA (around 0.2%) to the formula to help prevent this discoloration. It is also crucial to package the final product in an opaque container to protect it from light.

  • pH Adjustment: The optimal pH range for the active ingredients in your formula varies. Activated Resorcinol works best between pH 4.5-5.5, while Vitamin B3 and GlucoBright prefer a range of 3-7 (best 4-7 for B3). Allantoin works best between 4-8, and the preservative works between 4-9. To ensure the efficacy and stability of all actives, you should adjust the final pH of your formula to be within the 4.5 to 7.0 range, ideally targeting the 4.5-5.5 range if possible, provided it does not cause irritation.

  • Allantoin Solubility: At 0.2%, Allantoin should dissolve in the water phase at room temperature, although its solubility is limited (0.5% at 25°C). The product description suggests using Natural Betaine to improve Allantoin's solubility, but this is not strictly necessary at your current concentration.

By adding a suitable emulsifier and Disodium EDTA, adjusting the pH, and using appropriate packaging, you can improve the stability and effectiveness of your formula.