Formula Check and Comparison

Question

I have developed a formula for daytime use and a modified version for nighttime use and would like to check its feasibility and potential issues.

My proposed daytime formula includes:

Vitamin E 0.1%
Safe-B3 5%
GlucoBright 4%
Sym-White 0.5%
Pitera 20%
Japanese Cedar 1%
RETINAT™ 1.6%
Cell-Energy™ (Adenosine) 2%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Pro Polymer 1%
Water qs

For the nighttime version, I plan to remove Lift Now and add DMAE.

Could you please advise if these formulas are feasible and what potential issues I should be aware of, particularly regarding skin irritation from the concentration of Sym-White and the combination with Glycolic Acid? Is 1% Light Cream Maker sufficient for emulsifying 10% oil? What is the optimal pH range for Glycolic Acid in this formulation?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Formula Check

Thank you for submitting your formula for review.

Regarding your proposed daytime formula:
The combination of ingredients is generally possible, but there are a few points to consider:

Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): The concentration of 2% is quite high. The typical recommended usage is 0.1-0.5%. Using it at 2% significantly increases the risk of skin irritation, redness, or sensitivity, especially when combined with other active ingredients.
Glycolic Acid and Sym-White: Combining Glycolic Acid (an exfoliant) with a potent whitening agent like Sym-White at these concentrations can increase the potential for irritation and make your skin more sensitive to the sun. If using this formula during the day, strict sun protection (sunscreen) is essential.
Light Cream Maker: 1% might be insufficient to properly emulsify 10% oil, potentially leading to an unstable cream texture. You may need to adjust the percentage of the emulsifier based on the specific product's recommendations.
pH Level: For Glycolic Acid to be effective and safe, the final pH of the formula is critical. It should be low enough for exfoliation but not too low to cause excessive irritation. You would need to measure and adjust the pH.

Regarding your proposed nighttime modification (removing Lift Now and adding DMAE):
This modification is feasible. Removing Pullulan (Lift Now), which provides a temporary tightening effect, and adding DMAE, which is also known for firming properties, is a reasonable change for a nighttime product. However, the concerns mentioned above regarding Sym-White, Glycolic Acid, emulsifier percentage, and pH still apply to the rest of the formula.

Overall, while the ingredients can be combined, the high concentration of Sym-White and the combination with Glycolic Acid pose a risk of irritation. It's recommended to start with lower concentrations of potent actives or consider the staff's recommended formula which uses lower concentrations of Sym-White and a different set of actives, potentially offering a gentler approach to addressing your concerns.

Please proceed with caution and consider patch testing before applying the formula to your entire face.