Formula check for whitening/melasma cream (sensitive skin)

Question

I have formulated a cream for a friend who wants whitening and melasma reduction, but has sensitive skin and cannot use Vitamin C. I would like to request a formula check, specifically regarding the usage of the following ingredients:

Safe-B3 (Niacinamide)
SymWhite (Phenylethyl Resorcinol)
Easy Cream Maker

Please advise on the appropriate percentages and mixing procedure for these ingredients to ensure effectiveness for whitening/melasma on sensitive skin and overall formula stability. I am particularly concerned about the dissolution of SymWhite and achieving the correct cream texture.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Re: ช่วยตรวจสอบให้หน่อยค่ะ (Checking the formula)

Thank you for sharing your formula and your friend's skin concerns and goals (whitening, reducing melasma, sensitive to Vitamin C).

Based on the staff's feedback, your proposed formula is mostly correct, but there are a couple of important points to consider for optimal results and stability:

Niacinamide (B3): The staff recommends increasing the concentration of Niacinamide to 5% for full efficacy in addressing whitening and melasma.
SymWhite: SymWhite needs to be dissolved in an oil phase. Your current formula lacks sufficient oil. The staff suggests adding at least 5% oil to the formula to properly dissolve SymWhite. You can choose from options like Mineral Oil, LipidSoft Lite, or natural oils such as Jojoba Oil, depending on the desired skin feel and properties.
Easy Cream Maker: The staff suggests starting with a lower percentage (1-1.5%) of Easy Cream Maker and adjusting if needed to achieve the desired cream consistency.

The other steps in your method seem correct. By incorporating an oil phase as recommended, you will ensure that the SymWhite is properly dissolved and can function effectively in your whitening and melasma-reducing cream.