Formula Compatibility Check for Serum/Gel

Asked by: littleme_nattaya On: April 10, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please check the compatibility of the following formula: Protec™ UV (Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol) 0.1%, Repair Activator™ Liquid (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 5%, Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) 5%, Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%, Xanthan Gum 0.5%, Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol) 1%, Disodium EDTA 0.2%, Sodium Metabisulfite 0.2%, GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%, น้ำกลั่น ปราศจากเชื้อ 75.5%, Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.5%. Thank you.

Answer

Formula Compatibility Check

Thank you for providing your formula for review. This formula contains several beneficial ingredients aimed at skin repair, anti-aging, whitening, and protection.

Here is an analysis of the compatibility of the ingredients:

  • Key Active Ingredients: The formula includes Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, and GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine). These ingredients are generally compatible and work well together to improve skin texture, tone, and barrier function. The combination of Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine is particularly noted for its synergistic effect on reducing hyperpigmentation.
  • Penetration Enhancer: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is included to help enhance the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin, potentially increasing their efficacy.
  • Stabilizers and Antioxidants: Disodium EDTA helps to chelate metal ions in the water phase, improving formula stability. Sodium Metabisulfite acts as an antioxidant, protecting ingredients from oxidation. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) also provides antioxidant benefits. Protec UV is included to protect the formula ingredients from degradation caused by UV light.
  • Thickener: Xanthan Gum is used as a thickener to create the desired gel or serum texture.
  • Preservation: Mild Preserved Eco (a blend of Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol) is included at the recommended rate for preservation.

Compatibility Considerations and Recommendations:

  1. Incorporating Oil-Soluble Ingredients: Protec UV and Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) are oil-soluble. Your formula is primarily water-based with a gum thickener, suggesting a serum or gel. To properly incorporate these oil-soluble components and ensure formula stability (preventing separation), you will likely need to include a suitable solubilizer or emulsifier in your formula. Without this, the oil-soluble ingredients may not disperse evenly and could lead to instability over time.
  2. pH Level: Several active ingredients, such as Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Repair Activator, and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, have optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy. Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine work well together in the pH 3-7 range, with Niacinamide being best between 4.0-7.0. Repair Activator is pH 4-5.5, and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is pH 4-7. It is crucial to measure and adjust the final pH of your formula to be within the optimal range for these ingredients, ideally between pH 4.0 and 5.5, to ensure maximum effectiveness and stability.
  3. Mixing Order: Ensure Disodium EDTA is fully dissolved in the water phase before adding other ingredients. Xanthan Gum should be properly dispersed to avoid lumps. Heat-sensitive ingredients like Repair Activator and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate should be added in the final phase once the formula temperature is below 40°C.

Summary:

The ingredients selected are generally compatible and target multiple skin concerns effectively. The main challenge in this formulation will be successfully incorporating the oil-soluble Protec UV and Vitamin E into the water/gel base. Adding a suitable solubilizer or emulsifier and carefully adjusting the final pH are essential steps to ensure the stability and performance of your product.

With proper formulation techniques, this combination of ingredients can create a potent serum or gel.