Formula Evaluation: Lightweight, Non-Pilling Serum

ถามโดย: nopporn เมื่อ: January 31, 2021 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Please evaluate if the following formula can be mixed to create a serum with a liquid, easy-to-spread texture that does not leave a film or pill:
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5.00%
Linked Papain 3.00%
Tranexamic Acid 2.00%
WhiteCumin™ 2x (สารสกัดขมิ้น).. 3.00%
4MSK 2.00%
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4.00%
Hydro-White™ (Hydroquinone-Replacer) 1.00%
Witch Hazel 14.75%
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ 1.00%
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%) 3.00%
MOIST72™ 1.00%
Natto Gum 3.00%
Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic) 3.00%
EDTA 0.20%
Aristoflex AVC 0.60%
Satin Cream Maker™ 0.60%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1.00%
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate 1.00%
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3.00%
L-Carnosine 0.20%
Horse Placenta รกม้าสกัด 3.00%
Repair Activator™ Powder (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 1.00%
PiteraEx™ (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract) 1.00%
Quick-Coll® 1.00%
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 8.00%
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 3.00%
Syn-Ake 4.00%
LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate) 1.00%
LipidSoft™ Cyclo 2.00%
Phytosphingosine 0.20%
Bleu De (compare to Chanel) 1.00%
LipidSoft™ Lite 2.00%
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) 2.00%
Ethoxydiglycol 2.60%
Protec™ UV 0.10%
Protec™ OX 0.05%
pentylene glycol 5.00%
Pure-Quercetin™ 0.10%
Oat Avenanthramides 0.50%
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.10%
Skin-mimic™ (Skin Barrier Restoration) 7.00%
Adenosine Liposome 3.00%

คำตอบ

Formula Assessment: Lightweight, Non-Pilling Serum

This formula is quite complex, containing a large number and high concentration of active ingredients, along with multiple emulsifiers and emollients aimed at achieving a lightweight texture.

Mixability

Mixing this formula is possible, but it will require careful technique due to the different solubility and heat sensitivity of the ingredients:

  • Many ingredients are water-soluble and can be mixed into the water phase.
  • Ingredients like WhiteCumin™ 2x, Hydro-White™, MSH White™, LipidSoft™ F, LipidSoft™ Cyclo, Phytosphingosine, Protec™ UV, and Protec™ OX need to be dissolved or dispersed in the oil phase or specific solvents (like glycol for WhiteCumin™ 2x, DMI, or Ethoxydiglycol).
  • Some ingredients require heat for dissolving (Hydro-White™, MSH White™, LipidSoft™ F, Protec™ OX, Phytosphingosine), while many active ingredients (Linked Papain, L-Carnosine, Quick-Coll®, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Matrixyl 3000, Repair Activator™, PiteraEx™, MOIST72™) need to be added at temperatures below 40°C to maintain their efficacy.
  • This means you would likely need to prepare a heated oil phase (containing oil-soluble ingredients and those requiring heat to dissolve) and a water phase (containing water-soluble ingredients). The heat-sensitive actives would be added to the cooled water phase. The oil phase would then be emulsified into the water phase using the chosen emulsifiers (Aristoflex AVC, Satin Cream Maker™, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate).
  • The formula uses multiple emulsifiers/thickeners (Aristoflex AVC, Satin Cream Maker™, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate). While Satin Cream Maker™ is noted as electrolyte resistant, the presence of ingredients like 4MSK and Natto Gum (which are electrolytes) could potentially affect the final viscosity and stability, requiring careful testing and adjustment.
  • Syn-Ake has specific incompatibilities with certain preservatives and other ingredients. The formula uses Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol) and Pentylene Glycol, which are generally compatible, but overall compatibility with such a complex mix should be verified.

Texture and Feel

The selection of emollients (LipidSoft™ F, LipidSoft™ Cyclo, LipidSoft™ Lite) and solvents/carriers (Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Pentylene Glycol) suggests an intention to create a lightweight, non-greasy feel that spreads easily. These ingredients are known for providing a smooth application without heavy residue.

However, achieving a serum that is truly "liquid, easy to spread, doesn't leave a film, and doesn't pill" is challenging with such a high concentration and variety of active ingredients, especially those that contribute polymeric structure (like Natto Gum's Polyglutamic Acid) or require emulsification.

  • The combination of multiple gelling agents/emulsifiers and a high total percentage of active ingredients increases the risk of the serum feeling slightly tacky, leaving a subtle film, or potentially pilling when layered with other products or rubbed on the skin.
  • While the emulsifiers and emollients are chosen to minimize these issues, the overall complexity and high active load make it difficult to guarantee a completely film-free and non-pilling finish without extensive formulation optimization and testing.

In summary: The formula can be mixed with careful attention to ingredient properties and mixing temperatures. The ingredient selection aims for a lightweight feel, but the high concentration and complexity mean that achieving a texture that is completely free of film and pilling may be difficult and would require thorough testing and potential adjustments to the ratios or types of thickeners/emulsifiers and actives.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
เครื่องสำอาง
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
เครื่องสำอาง
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Satin Cream Maker™
Satin Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST72™
MOIST72™
เครื่องสำอาง
Natto Gum Extract
Natto Gum Extract
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
เครื่องสำอาง
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
เครื่องสำอาง
WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane)
WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure-Quercetin™ (98% Purity, Powder)
Pure-Quercetin™ (98% Purity, Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate)
LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate)
เครื่องสำอาง
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnosine
L-Carnosine
เครื่องสำอาง
Quick-Coll®
Quick-Coll®
เครื่องสำอาง
Dermal Respiratory Factor
Dermal Respiratory Factor
เครื่องสำอาง
Pentylene Glycol (Low-Odor)
Pentylene Glycol (Low-Odor)
เครื่องสำอาง
Horse Placenta
Horse Placenta
เครื่องสำอาง
Phytosphingosine (90% Purity)
Phytosphingosine (90% Purity)
เครื่องสำอาง
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
เครื่องสำอาง
Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic)
Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic)
เครื่องสำอาง
Linked Papain (e.q. X-PRESSIN C)
Linked Papain (e.q. X-PRESSIN C)
เครื่องสำอาง
D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid)
D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hydro-White™ (Hydroquinone-Replacer)
Hydro-White™ (Hydroquinone-Replacer)
เครื่องสำอาง
Aristoflex AVC
Aristoflex AVC
เครื่องสำอาง
Oat Avenanthramides (Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid)
Oat Avenanthramides (Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ Cyclo (e.q. Cetiol Ultimate)
LipidSoft™ Cyclo (e.q. Cetiol Ultimate)
เครื่องสำอาง