Formula Evaluation: Powder Cleanser with Scrub
Question
I am developing a facial cleansing powder with a built-in scrub for dry to combination skin, aiming for a non-drying cleanse with oil control and exfoliation. The formula includes Amino Powder Cleanser, Apricot Scrub, Powder to Coconut Oil cream base, Colloidal Oatmeal, Apple stemcell extract, Rice Vitamin, Natural Betaine, and ActiveRelease Salicylic Acid. I have specific questions regarding: 1. The effectiveness of moisturizing ingredients like Rice Vitamin and Natural Betaine in a wash-off product with a short contact time (3-5 minutes massage), and whether this process might still cause dryness despite the gentle base. 2. The function of the Powder to Coconut Oil cream base in creating a creamy texture upon mixing with water. 3. Whether Colloidal Oatmeal at 5% will provide a milky texture and if this percentage is suitable for its soothing properties. 4. If Rice Vitamin can be used instead of corn starch for oil reduction. 5. Overall suitability and compatibility of the combined ingredients in this formula.
Answer
Formula Evaluation: Facial Cleansing Powder with Scrub
Here is an evaluation of your facial cleansing powder formula with built-in scrub, along with answers to your specific questions:
Overall Formula Concept
The concept of a powder-to-cream facial cleanser with a gentle scrub is interesting and aims to provide both cleansing and exfoliation while minimizing dryness, which aligns well with the needs of dry to combination skin. The inclusion of moisturizing and soothing ingredients is appropriate for this goal.
Answers to Your Questions
Moisture Retention vs. Drying: You are concerned that massaging for 3-5 minutes with a foaming cleanser might be drying. The formula uses Amino Powder Cleanser, which is a gentle surfactant base. Combined with moisturizing ingredients like Rice Vitamin and Natural Betaine, and the creamy texture provided by Powder To Coconut Oil Cream Base, the formula is designed to be less drying than traditional foaming cleansers. However, the duration of massage (3-5 minutes) and the physical exfoliation from the scrub can still potentially cause some dryness or irritation, especially if the scrub particles are not fine and smooth, or if massaged too vigorously. While the moisturizing ingredients help, it's a balance, and individual skin sensitivity varies. You may need to adjust the massage time or pressure based on your skin's response.
Powder to Coconut Oil Cream Base: Your understanding is correct. The Powder To Coconut Oil Cream Base is intended to create a creamy texture when mixed with water, helping the powder transform into a more emollient cleanser before application to the face. This contributes to a smoother feel and can help reduce the drying potential.
Colloidal Oatmeal and "Milky" Effect: You asked if Colloidal Oatmeal would create a milky texture and if 5% is too much. While a true Colloidal Oatmeal is known to create a milky appearance and provide soothing benefits in water, the search did not specifically find "Colloidal Oatmeal". Ingredients like Beta Glucan from Oat Extract are available and offer soothing properties, although they might not provide the same milky texture as whole colloidal oatmeal. If a suitable Colloidal Oatmeal product were used, 5% is a reasonable concentration to achieve a noticeable effect, both in texture and soothing properties.
Rice Vitamin vs. Corn Starch for Oil Reduction: Rice Vitamin (Inositol) is primarily a moisturizing and skin-balancing ingredient that helps regulate moisture and oil production over time, making combination skin more balanced and dry skin more moisturized. It does not function as an immediate oil absorber like corn starch or other mattifying powders (e.g., Ricesorb). If your goal is immediate oil absorption in the powder form, Rice Vitamin is not a direct substitute for corn starch.
Overall Formula Suitability: The formula is generally well-designed for its intended purpose and skin types. The combination of gentle cleansing, mild chemical exfoliation (ActiveRelease Salicylic Acid at 1%), physical exfoliation (scrub), and moisturizing/soothing agents (Rice Vitamin, Natural Betaine, potentially oat extract) addresses the needs of dry to combination skin. Key considerations for success are:
- Scrub Particle: Ensure the "Apricot Scrub" particle size is fine and smooth enough for gentle facial exfoliation. Harsh particles can cause micro-tears.
- Massage Technique: Advise users to massage gently and adjust duration based on skin sensitivity.
- Ingredient Compatibility: Ensure all ingredients are compatible in a dry powder mix and remain stable over time.
The inclusion of Natural Betaine is particularly good as it helps mitigate potential irritation from both the scrub and the Salicylic Acid.
Related Products Mentioned
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Amino Powder Cleanser