Formula Feedback: High BHA Concentration and Natural Ingredient Recommendations for Acne, Pigmentation, Sensitive Skin
คำถาม
I have submitted a cosmetic formula for review. The staff pointed out that the Salicylic Acid (BHA) concentration in my first formula is very high (135g in the total formula). I am also developing two other formulas: a face firming cream and a serum.
I am looking for recommendations for effective, safe, and natural ingredients suitable for sensitive skin to address the following concerns:
- Acne
- Melasma, Freckles, and Dark Spots
Could you please provide feedback on my first formula regarding the high BHA concentration and suggest natural ingredient alternatives for the mentioned skin concerns? Additionally, what information (common names and percentages) should I provide for my face firming cream and serum formulas to get specific recommendations?
คำตอบ
Feedback on Your Formula and Ingredient Recommendations
Thank you for sharing your formula and questions. I have reviewed your first formula and the feedback provided by the staff.
Regarding the ingredients in your first formula, many of them or similar alternatives are available, including various types of Beeswax, Wax Cream Maker™, Mineral Oil, Glyceryl Stearate SE (GMS SE), Salicylic Acid (BHA), Glycerin, preservatives like Germaben # E, and fragrance ingredients. Please note that while a product similar to Tween 40 (Sorbitan Palmitate) is available, Polysorbate 40 specifically was not found, but alternatives like Polysorbate 20 or Polysorbate 80 are available.
As the staff correctly pointed out, the concentration of Salicylic Acid (BHA) in your first formula is extremely high (135g in total, which is a very high percentage) and is likely to cause severe irritation and damage to your skin. Salicylic Acid is effective at much lower concentrations (typically 0.5% to 2% in leave-on products). Using such a high concentration will harm your skin barrier and could worsen hyperpigmentation issues like melasma and freckles in the long run.
You are looking for natural ingredients that are effective, safe, and suitable for sensitive skin to treat acne, melasma, freckles, and dark spots. Here are some recommended ingredients available:
For Acne:
- Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble): Known for its antibacterial properties against acne-causing bacteria. Use at appropriate low concentrations.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): A versatile ingredient that helps reduce inflammation, redness, control oil, and improve skin barrier function, beneficial for acne and sensitive skin. Available in high-purity grades like Safe-B3™ and Extreme-B3™.
For Melasma, Freckles, and Dark Spots (Whitening):
- Alpha Arbutin: A safe and effective alternative to Hydroquinone that inhibits melanin production. Available in different grades.
- Licorice Extract: Contains Glabridin, which helps lighten skin tone and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Various types are available, including water-soluble options.
- Vitamin C Derivatives: Stable forms like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate offer antioxidant protection and help brighten skin tone.
For Sensitive Skin (Soothing and Calming):
- Natural Bisabolol: An anti-inflammatory compound found in Chamomile, helps soothe irritation and redness.
- Aloe Vera Extract: Provides hydration and has soothing and healing properties.
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Cica): Contains compounds like Madecassoside and Asiaticoside that help soothe irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and support skin repair. Available in high-purity forms like Pure-TECA™.
When formulating for sensitive skin, it is best to use a simple base and incorporate these active ingredients at low, effective concentrations. Always patch test new formulations.
Regarding your other two formulas (face firming cream and serum), please provide the common names and percentages of each ingredient as requested by the staff. This information is necessary to evaluate the formulas and provide specific recommendations for adjustments.
I hope this information is helpful.
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Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80)
Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Heavy (68cst)
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Powder, Enzymatic Synthesis)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Wax Cream Maker™
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Yellow Beeswax
Perfume beads, aroma diffuser beads, Solid Perfume
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Very Light (15cst)
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
Sorbitan Palmitate (Span 40)