Formula Analysis and Suggestions for Melasma, Rejuvenation, and Brightening Cream

Thank you for sharing your cream formula and questions. Based on your goal to reduce melasma, rejuvenate, and brighten skin, and considering your skin type (rough, thick melasma, uneven texture, wrinkles, large pores, redness/heat sensitivity), here is an analysis of your formula and suggestions for improvement.

Overall Formula Assessment

1. Is this formula good for creating a cream?
   • As the staff correctly pointed out, your current formula lacks a proper emulsifier. While Polysorbate 80 has some emulsifying properties, it is primarily a solubilizer and is unlikely to create a stable cream texture with the amount of oil (Mineral Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Beeswax) in your formula. This will likely lead to separation over time.
   • There are significant incompatibilities between some of your chosen ingredients. Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) is incompatible with Carbomer and ingredients in the amino acid/protein group. Your formula contains Carbomer, and you are considering adding an amino acid extract. This incompatibility can cause the formula to turn yellow or separate, and can reduce the effectiveness of the active ingredients.
   • Managing the pH for optimal stability and function of all active ingredients (Sym-White™, FruitPeel™, Tranexamic Acid) and the thickener (Carbomer) is challenging in this formula due to the incompatibilities.

Therefore, as it stands, the formula is likely unstable and may not deliver the desired results effectively.

Ingredient Substitutions and Additions

2. If the formula works, is changing Sym-White™ 0.5% to Alpha Arbutin 1% good?

   • The staff noted that Sym-White™ is generally more potent than Alpha Arbutin for skin brightening. However, given the incompatibility of Sym-White™ with Carbomer and potential amino acids in your formula, substituting Sym-White™ 0.5% with Alpha Arbutin 1% is a good change for formula stability and compatibility. Alpha Arbutin (at 1%) is compatible with Carbomer and is less likely to react with other ingredients like amino acids. While it might be slightly less potent than Sym-White™, a stable formula with Alpha Arbutin will be more effective than an unstable formula with Sym-White™. Alpha Arbutin is also generally well-tolerated, which might be beneficial for your skin type prone to redness.

3. Can I add 3% amino acid extract?

   • Adding an amino acid extract is not recommended if you keep Sym-White™ in your formula due to incompatibility issues (yellowing/separation). If you substitute Sym-White™ with Alpha Arbutin, adding an amino acid extract might be possible, but we would need the full name of the specific amino acid extract you intend to use to check for any other potential incompatibilities or usage guidelines.

Suggestions for Improvement

4. Do you have suggestions for improving this formula?

   Based on your goals and skin type, and addressing the issues identified:

   • Add a suitable emulsifier: This is the most critical step for formula stability. As suggested by the staff, consider using Milk Lotion Maker™, Butter Cream Maker™, or Soft Cream Maker™ at the recommended usage rate (typically 2-6% depending on the maker and desired thickness). Butter Cream Maker™ or Soft Cream Maker™ might be suitable for achieving a thicker cream texture that still absorbs well, as you described.
   • Resolve Ingredient Incompatibilities:
     • Option 1 (Recommended): Substitute Sym-White™ with Alpha Arbutin (e.g., 1-2%). This resolves the incompatibility with Carbomer and potential amino acids and may be gentler for sensitive skin.
     • Option 2: If you strongly prefer to use Sym-White™, you would need to replace Carbomer with a different thickener that is compatible with Sym-White™ and can function at the required pH (around 4-5 for Sym-White™ stability). This would require significant reformulation of the base.
   • Adjust and Control pH: The final pH of your cream is crucial for the stability and efficacy of the active ingredients. If using Alpha Arbutin (stable at pH 3.5-6.5), Tranexamic Acid (stable at pH 3-8), and FruitPeel™ (stable at pH 3.5-7.0), aim for a final pH in the range of 4.0-6.0. You will need to measure the pH of your final formula and adjust it using an alkali like Triethanolamine (if pH is too low) or an acid (if pH is too high). Note that Carbomer requires a pH of 6-7 to gel effectively, which conflicts with the optimal pH for some actives. Using a different thickener or a Carbomer type that tolerates lower pH might be necessary if aiming for a lower pH.
   • Enhance Tranexamic Acid Stability: Add ActiveProtec™ OX at 0.5% as recommended in the Tranexamic Acid description to help prevent long-term discoloration.
   • Consider Skin Sensitivity: Your skin is prone to redness and heat. The combination of exfoliation (FruitPeel™) and multiple potent actives might cause irritation. Consider starting with lower concentrations of actives or using the cream on alternate nights to allow your skin to adjust. Ensure the formula includes sufficient emollients and humectants (like Mineral Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Beeswax, and potentially adding others) to support the skin barrier, especially since your skin is dry and rough.
   • Review Active Concentrations: While the percentages you listed are generally within recommended ranges for individual ingredients, the combined effect of multiple actives targeting pigmentation and rejuvenation might be intense. Monitor your skin's response and adjust concentrations if needed.
   • Preservation: Ensure your preservative system is adequate for the final formula. Mild Preserved Eco™ is a blend that includes Ethylhexylglycerin and is typically used at 1%.
   • Storage: Store the finished cream in a cool, dark place, ideally in the refrigerator, especially if using ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Sym-White™, Myristyl Nicotinate, and FruitPeel™, which recommend refrigeration for long-term stability.

In summary, while your formula contains many beneficial active ingredients for your goals, the lack of a proper emulsifier and ingredient incompatibilities need to be addressed to create a stable and effective cream. Substituting Sym-White™ with Alpha Arbutin and adding a suitable emulsifier are key steps for improvement.