Formula Modification for Non-Comedogenic Cream/Lotion

Question

Based on the provided formula, please help adjust it to create a non-comedogenic product. I specifically want to replace Isopropyl Palmitate with another ingredient that does not clog pores. Additionally, can Dimethicone 350 ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/236-silicone-oil-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A2:2bhdki44]Dimethicone[/url:2bhdki44]350) be replaced with a non-silicone alternative, or should it be kept? Please also advise on any other ingredients that need adjustment.

Original Formula:
Glycerine 3%
Xanthan Gum 0.1%
Water 76.15%
2Na EDTA 0.05%
Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
Carbopol 940 0.1%
Glyceryl Monostearate 4%
Isopropyl Palmitate 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emollient-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/654-mineral-oil-paraffinum-liquidum.html:2bhdki44]white oil[/url:2bhdki44] 2.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/173-cetyl-alcohol-vegetable.html:2bhdki44]Cetyl Alcohol[/url:2bhdki44] 2%
Tween 60 1.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/236-silicone-oil-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A2:2bhdki44]Dimethicone[/url:2bhdki44]350 0.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:2bhdki44]Vitamin B3[/url:2bhdki44] 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3/76-aloe-vera-extract-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%82%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94.html:2bhdki44]Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract[/url:2bhdki44] 1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/762-madecassoside-centella-asiatica-extract.html:2bhdki44]Centella Asiatica[/url:2bhdki44] Leaf Extract 1%
Botanical Extract ComplexB 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/404-double-hyaluron-liquid.html:2bhdki44]Hyaluronic Acid[/url:2bhdki44] 0.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/139-triethanolamine-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:2bhdki44]Triethanolamine[/url:2bhdki44] 0.1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/319-%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1:2bhdki44]Fragrance[/url:2bhdki44] 0.2%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your request to modify your formula to be non-comedogenic and the information gathered, here are the proposed adjustments:

To make your formula less likely to clog pores, the primary ingredients to address are Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil, both of which have a higher potential for comedogenicity. You also requested a non-silicone alternative for Dimethicone 350.

Here are two options for modifying your formula:

Proposed Modified Formula (Option 1)

This option replaces Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil with Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Dimethicone 350 with LipidSoft™ D5.

Glycerine 3%
Xanthan Gum 0.1%
Water 76.15%
2Na EDTA 0.05%
Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
Carbopol 940 0.1%
Glyceryl Monostearate 4%
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 4.5% (replaces Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil)
Cetyl Alcohol 2%
Tween 60 1.5%
LipidSoft™ D5 (Cyclomethicone Replacer) 0.5% (replaces Dimethicone 350)
Vitamin B3 2%
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 1%
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract 1%
Botanical Extract ComplexB 3%
Hyaluronic Acid 0.5%
Triethanolamine 0.1%
Fragrance 0.2%

Total: 100%

Proposed Modified Formula (Option 2)

This option replaces Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil with Squalane and Dimethicone 350 with LipidSoft™ D5.

Glycerine 3%
Xanthan Gum 0.1%
Water 76.15%
2Na EDTA 0.05%
Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
Carbopol 940 0.1%
Glyceryl Monostearate 4%
Squalane 4.5% (replaces Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil)
Cetyl Alcohol 2%
Tween 60 1.5%
LipidSoft™ D5 (Cyclomethicone Replacer) 0.5% (replaces Dimethicone 350)
Vitamin B3 2%
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 1%
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract 1%
Botanical Extract ComplexB 3%
Hyaluronic Acid 0.5%
Triethanolamine 0.1%
Fragrance 0.2%

Total: 100%

Explanation of Changes:

Isopropyl Palmitate and white oil: These emollients are replaced with Ethylhexyl Palmitate or Squalane. Both are considered non-comedogenic and provide good emolliency. Ethylhexyl Palmitate (LipidSoft™ Palm) is a palm-derived emollient that helps with spreadability and moisturizing, though using it at high concentrations might pose a risk for some acne-prone skin. Squalane (Olive) is a highly pure, non-greasy oil that is excellent for moisturizing and is non-comedogenic.
Dimethicone 350: Replaced with LipidSoft™ D5 (Cyclomethicone Replacer). This ingredient is a blend of hydrocarbons designed to provide the slip, cushion, and light feel of silicones like Cyclomethicone and low-viscosity Dimethicone, but without being a silicone itself.

Other Ingredients:

Ingredients like Glyceryl Monostearate, Cetyl Alcohol, and Tween 60 are emulsifiers and thickeners crucial for the stability and texture of your cream. While some sources list them as potentially mildly comedogenic depending on the grade and individual sensitivity, they are commonly used in many cosmetic formulas, including some marketed as non-comedogenic. Replacing them would require a more complex reformulation of the emulsification system. The proposed formulas keep these to minimize changes while addressing the main comedogenic concerns.

Ingredients such as Glycerine, Xanthan Gum, 2Na EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Carbopol 940, Vitamin B3, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Botanical Extract ComplexB, Hyaluronic Acid, Triethanolamine, and Fragrance are generally not considered significant contributors to clogged pores at the percentages used and can remain in the formula.