Formula Review: Acne-Free Cleansing Gel

Thank you for sharing your formula. Here is a review with suggestions for improvement:

1. Surfactant Concentration: The total concentration of surfactants (AminoWash, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Flora Foam, Coco Foam) is very high (15% + 20% + 3% + 15% = 53%). For a facial cleanser, especially one intended for acne-prone skin which can be sensitive, this is likely too high and could be very stripping and irritating. Typical total surfactant concentrations in gentle facial cleansers are much lower, often in the 15-30% range depending on the specific surfactants used.

2. Salicylic Acid Concentration: The concentration of Salicylic Acid (BHA) at 10% is extremely high for a facial cleansing product. Salicylic Acid is effective for acne at much lower concentrations, typically 0.5% to 2% in wash-off products. A 10% concentration is usually found in chemical peels or treatments for warts and calluses, not daily facial cleansers. Using Salicylic Acid at this concentration on the face will very likely cause severe irritation, redness, dryness, peeling, and potentially chemical burns. This concentration must be significantly reduced.

3. pH Level: Salicylic Acid is most effective at a low pH (around 3-4). The formula's pH needs to be adjusted to be acidic for the Salicylic Acid to work properly. However, achieving and maintaining such a low pH with a high surfactant load can be tricky, and a very low pH can also be irritating to the skin, especially combined with high surfactant levels and high Salicylic Acid.

4. Gelling Agent: The formula does not list a specific gelling agent or thickener. While some surfactants can provide viscosity, you may need to add a rheology modifier (like a carbomer or similar) to achieve a stable gel consistency.

5. Essential Oil: Essential oils can be irritating for sensitive or acne-prone skin. If you choose to include one, use a very low concentration (1-2 drops in a typical batch size might be acceptable, but ensure it is skin-safe and properly dispersed).

Recommendations for Improvement:

• Drastically reduce the Salicylic Acid concentration to a safe and effective level for a cleanser (e.g., 0.5% to 2%).
• Reduce the total surfactant concentration to make the cleanser gentler. You may need to experiment with the percentages and types of surfactants to find a balance between cleansing efficacy and mildness.
• Consider adding a gelling agent to achieve the desired gel texture.
• Adjust the pH to be suitable for Salicylic Acid efficacy (acidic) while also considering skin compatibility (ideally below 5.5, but for SA efficacy, it needs to be lower, which is the challenge). Aim for a pH that balances efficacy and irritation potential.

Shelf Life and Preservatives

Regarding your questions about preservatives:

• Shelf life with Mild Preserved Eco™: Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol) at 1% is a broad-spectrum preservative blend commonly used in cosmetics. If used at the recommended concentration and the formula's pH is within its effective range, it should provide adequate preservation for a typical product shelf life (e.g., 1-2 years), assuming good manufacturing practices and proper packaging.

• Necessity of multiple preservatives: It is not strictly necessary to use multiple preservatives. A single effective, broad-spectrum preservative or blend like Mild Preserved Eco™ can be sufficient to protect the product from microbial growth. Commercial products sometimes use multiple preservatives for broader coverage against different types of microbes, synergistic effects, or to function across a wider pH range or overcome formulation challenges. However, using one reliable system like Mild Preserved Eco™ is often adequate for home formulations.

In summary, the current formula has dangerously high levels of Salicylic Acid and very high levels of surfactants, making it unsuitable and potentially harmful for facial use. Significant adjustments are needed to make it a safe and effective acne-free cleansing gel.