Formula Review and Emulsifier Requirement

Subject: Formula Review

Thank you for submitting your formula for review.

Your proposed formula includes the following ingredients:

• Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) 2%
• Horse Placenta 3%
• Pep®-Radiance (Nonapeptide-1) 1%
• Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) 2%
• Superoxide Dismutase Liposome (SOD) 1%
• PiteraEx™ (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract) 1%
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) 40%
• Plankton Artemia Extract 2%
• Snow Algae 2%
• Nano Gold (Nanocarrier, Colloidal Gold 1-50nm) 2%
• Sodium Metabisulfite 0.2%
• Benzethonium Chloride 0.1%
• Isododecane (Germany) 25%
• Xanthan Gum 0.5%
• Distilled Water up to 100%

Based on the ingredients, this formula contains both a significant water phase (Distilled Water, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, and most extracts/actives) and an oil phase (Isododecane).

Feasibility and Suitability:
The formula as listed is not feasible because it is missing a crucial component: an emulsifier. An emulsifier is required to blend the oil phase (Isododecane) with the water phase and keep them from separating. Without an emulsifier, your formula will likely separate into layers.

The selection of active ingredients is good, combining various beneficial properties such as anti-glycation, anti-aging, whitening, and antioxidant effects. These ingredients generally complement each other.

Recommendations:
To make this formula workable and stable, you must add an appropriate emulsifier system. The choice of emulsifier will depend on the desired texture (e.g., light serum, lotion, cream) and the specific requirements of the ingredients. You might also consider adding co-emulsifiers or stabilizers to enhance stability.

Mixing Procedure:
The mixing procedure depends heavily on the type of emulsifier used and whether you are creating an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. Assuming you aim for an O/W emulsion (common for serums/lotions with a high water phase), a general procedure would involve:

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine distilled water, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, and other water-soluble ingredients (extracts, peptides, Alpha Arbutin, SOD, Sodium Metabisulfite, Benzethonium Chloride). Disperse Xanthan Gum properly in a small amount of water or glycerin before adding to the bulk water phase to avoid lumps, then mix until fully hydrated and thickened. This phase may need to be heated depending on the emulsifier.
2. Prepare the Oil Phase: Combine Isododecane and the chosen emulsifier(s). This phase may also need to be heated.
3. Emulsification: Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase (or vice versa, depending on the emulsifier instructions) while mixing continuously with high shear (e.g., using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) until a stable emulsion is formed.
4. Cooling and Adding Sensitive Ingredients: Continue mixing gently while the emulsion cools down. Add heat-sensitive ingredients (like some peptides or extracts) when the temperature is below their recommended maximum handling temperature.
5. Final Adjustments: Check the pH and adjust if necessary for stability and efficacy. Ensure the mixture is homogeneous.

Please note that this is a general guide. You will need specific instructions based on the emulsifier you choose.

In summary, your formula contains promising active ingredients, but it requires the addition of an emulsifier to be stable and usable.