Formula Review and Suggestions

• Active Ingredients:

  • Long-Lash™ (6.67%): This is within the recommended usage rate of 5-10% and is specifically designed to stimulate eyelash growth and density.
  • Biotinyl-GHK (Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) (3.00%): Your concentration is at the recommended 3% for optimal hair growth acceleration.
  • Pure-Biotin™ (0.17%): This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.1-0.2%. Biotin is known to strengthen hair roots and promote healthy growth.
  • Melatonin Forte™ (1.00%): Your concentration is at the recommended 1%. Research suggests Melatonin can help reduce hair loss and stimulate growth.

• Supporting Ingredients:

  • Urea (10.00%): Urea is a good moisturizer and, importantly, can help improve the penetration of Biotin into the skin. The recommended range for moisturizing is 3-20%, with 5% often recommended for dry skin and enhanced Biotin transport. While 10% is within the overall range, a slightly lower concentration (e.g., 5-7%) might still provide sufficient benefit for Biotin transport and moisturizing without the increased risk of pH instability and potential odor associated with higher Urea levels.
  • Triacetin (1.00%): It appears you are using Triacetin at a 1:10 ratio with Urea, which is a recommended method to help stabilize Urea and control the pH of the formula, as well as reduce any potential odor from Urea. This is a good inclusion given the Urea concentration.
  • ActiveProtec™ UV (1.00%): This is within the recommended usage rate of 0.5-4.0% (1-2% recommended). It's a valuable addition as Pure-Biotin is sensitive to UV light, and this ingredient will help protect the stability of your formula, especially if packaged in a clear container.
  • Phenoxyethanol (0.50%): This is a suitable preservative concentration for eye products (maximum 0.5%). However, Phenoxyethanol is primarily effective against bacteria and less so against fungi. Depending on your manufacturing environment, raw material quality, and intended packaging (especially if it involves a brush or applicator that repeatedly enters the product), you might consider adding a co-preservative or using a broad-spectrum preservative blend to ensure adequate protection against fungal contamination.

• Stability Considerations:

  • Melatonin Forte™: This ingredient is sensitive to air and can degrade if continuously exposed. It is highly recommended to package the finished product in air-restrictive packaging, such as a vacuum tube or a bottle with a pump, rather than a jar.
  • Urea: As mentioned, Urea can cause the pH to rise over time, particularly at temperatures above 35°C. The inclusion of Triacetin helps, but monitoring the pH stability of your finished product over time and under different temperature conditions is crucial.

Suggested Mixing Method

Here is a general mixing procedure. Always ensure your equipment is clean and sanitized.

1. Water Phase: Weigh out the required amount of Aqua into a beaker.
2. Dissolve/Disperse Solids: Add Urea, Triacetin, and ActiveProtec™ UV to the water phase. Mix until fully dissolved or dispersed. You can gently heat the water phase up to 50-60°C to help dissolve Urea and ActiveProtec™ UV, but avoid prolonged heating above 60°C, especially after adding Urea.
3. Cool Down: If you heated the mixture, cool it down to room temperature (below 30°C) before adding the sensitive active ingredients.
4. Add Actives: Add Long-Lash™, Biotinoyl-GHK, and Melatonin Forte™ to the cooled mixture. Mix gently until incorporated. Avoid excessive mixing that could introduce a lot of air, especially with Melatonin Forte™.
5. Add Pure-Biotin™: Add Pure-Biotin™ powder to the mixture. Since it's a powder that disperses rather than dissolves, you will need to mix thoroughly, potentially using a homogenizer or high-shear mixer if available, to ensure it is evenly distributed throughout the serum.
6. Add Preservative: Add Phenoxyethanol and mix until fully dispersed.
7. Final Check: Check the pH of the final formula and adjust if necessary to be within the recommended range for the ingredients (generally pH 4-10, but check specific ingredient optimal ranges if available).
8. Packaging: Package the serum into appropriate air-restrictive containers to protect the Melatonin Forte™.

Remember to perform stability testing on your finished product to ensure its quality and efficacy over its intended shelf life.