Formula Review and Texture Adjustment for Light Serum

Asked by: sathit.piamoon On: February 03, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Here is my formula:

Ingredients:

  • Witch Hazel 20%
  • Safe-B3 4%
  • Rice Vitamin 2%
  • TreMoisture 2%
  • 1,2-Hexanediol 3%
  • GlucoBright 4%
  • น้ำมันมะพร้าว 5%
  • Vitamin E 0.5%
  • Light Cream Maker 1.5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 0.5%
  • น้ำกลั่น Balance %
  • Aloe Vera Extract 3%

Is there any problem with this formula? Can any ingredients be added or removed? I want a light, fast-absorbing serum texture. Which ingredients should I add? Please advise.

Answer

Formulation Review and Serum Texture Adjustment

Your current formula includes a good selection of active ingredients beneficial for the skin, such as Witch Hazel, Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3), Rice Vitamin (Inositol), TreMoisture (Trehalose), 1,2-Hexanediol, GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Aloe Vera Extract, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Vitamin E, Light Cream Maker, Mild Preserved Eco, and Purified Water.

Formula Evaluation

  • The combination of ingredients is generally compatible.
  • The formula uses Light Cream Maker and Fractionated Coconut Oil, which creates an oil-in-water emulsion. This typically results in a light cream or lotion texture, not a true serum texture which is usually a gel or very low-viscosity liquid.
  • The percentages of active ingredients like Safe-B3 (4%) and GlucoBright (4%) are within effective ranges and work well together for brightening and skin barrier support.
  • Witch Hazel (20%) and Aloe Vera Extract (3%) are good additions for soothing and pore-tightening effects. Aloe Vera Extract is an electrolyte and might slightly reduce the viscosity provided by Light Cream Maker, which could contribute to a lighter feel, but stability should be confirmed.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol (3%) and Mild Preserved Eco (0.5%) provide preservation support. For better microbial stability, especially with natural extracts, increasing Mild Preserved Eco to 1.0-1.5% is advisable, or ensuring the 3% 1,2-Hexanediol provides sufficient boosting. A challenge test is recommended.

Adjusting for a Light, Fast-Absorbing Serum Texture

To achieve a lighter, fast-absorbing serum texture, you should aim for a water-based gel rather than an emulsion. This involves removing the oil phase and the emulsifier, and using a suitable gelling agent.

Here's how you can modify your formula:

  1. Remove the oil phase: Eliminate Fractionated Coconut Oil (5%) and Vitamin E (0.5%). Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) is oil-soluble; if you still want antioxidant protection, consider a water-soluble antioxidant or a different form of Vitamin E if available.
  2. Remove the emulsifier: Remove Light Cream Maker (1.5%).
  3. Add a gelling agent: Replace the emulsifier with a water-soluble gelling agent suitable for serums. A good option is Aristoflex AVC. This ingredient creates a clear gel texture in water-based formulas and is easy to use.
  4. Adjust percentages:
    • Keep the water-soluble active ingredients at their current effective percentages: Witch Hazel (20%), Safe-B3 (4%), Rice Vitamin (2%), TreMoisture (2%), 1,2-Hexanediol (3%), GlucoBright (4%), Aloe Vera Extract (3%).
    • Increase Mild Preserved Eco to 1.0-1.5% for more robust preservation.
    • Add Aristoflex AVC at a percentage between 0.5% and 1.5% (or adjust as needed) to achieve the desired serum viscosity. Start with a lower percentage (e.g., 0.5-1.0%) for a very light serum.
    • Adjust Purified Water percentage to make the total 100%.

Example Revised Formula Structure (Gel Serum):

  • Witch Hazel: 20%
  • Safe-B3: 4%
  • Rice Vitamin: 2%
  • TreMoisture: 2%
  • 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
  • GlucoBright: 4%
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
  • Mild Preserved Eco: 1.0-1.5%
  • Aristoflex AVC: 0.5-1.5% (adjust for desired thickness)
  • Purified Water: Balance to 100%

This revised formula will give you a water-based gel serum that is typically lighter and absorbs faster than an emulsion. Remember to perform a challenge test on the final formula to ensure its microbial stability.