Formula Review and Texture Adjustment for Light Serum
Question
Here is my formula:
Ingredients:
- Witch Hazel 20%
- Safe-B3 4%
- Rice Vitamin 2%
- TreMoisture 2%
- 1,2-Hexanediol 3%
- GlucoBright 4%
- น้ำมันมะพร้าว 5%
- Vitamin E 0.5%
- Light Cream Maker 1.5%
- Mild Preserved Eco 0.5%
- น้ำกลั่น Balance %
- Aloe Vera Extract 3%
Is there any problem with this formula? Can any ingredients be added or removed? I want a light, fast-absorbing serum texture. Which ingredients should I add? Please advise.
Answer
Formulation Review and Serum Texture Adjustment
Your current formula includes a good selection of active ingredients beneficial for the skin, such as Witch Hazel, Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3), Rice Vitamin (Inositol), TreMoisture (Trehalose), 1,2-Hexanediol, GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Aloe Vera Extract, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Vitamin E, Light Cream Maker, Mild Preserved Eco, and Purified Water.
Formula Evaluation
- The combination of ingredients is generally compatible.
- The formula uses Light Cream Maker and Fractionated Coconut Oil, which creates an oil-in-water emulsion. This typically results in a light cream or lotion texture, not a true serum texture which is usually a gel or very low-viscosity liquid.
- The percentages of active ingredients like Safe-B3 (4%) and GlucoBright (4%) are within effective ranges and work well together for brightening and skin barrier support.
- Witch Hazel (20%) and Aloe Vera Extract (3%) are good additions for soothing and pore-tightening effects. Aloe Vera Extract is an electrolyte and might slightly reduce the viscosity provided by Light Cream Maker, which could contribute to a lighter feel, but stability should be confirmed.
- 1,2-Hexanediol (3%) and Mild Preserved Eco (0.5%) provide preservation support. For better microbial stability, especially with natural extracts, increasing Mild Preserved Eco to 1.0-1.5% is advisable, or ensuring the 3% 1,2-Hexanediol provides sufficient boosting. A challenge test is recommended.
Adjusting for a Light, Fast-Absorbing Serum Texture
To achieve a lighter, fast-absorbing serum texture, you should aim for a water-based gel rather than an emulsion. This involves removing the oil phase and the emulsifier, and using a suitable gelling agent.
Here's how you can modify your formula:
- Remove the oil phase: Eliminate Fractionated Coconut Oil (5%) and Vitamin E (0.5%). Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) is oil-soluble; if you still want antioxidant protection, consider a water-soluble antioxidant or a different form of Vitamin E if available.
- Remove the emulsifier: Remove Light Cream Maker (1.5%).
- Add a gelling agent: Replace the emulsifier with a water-soluble gelling agent suitable for serums. A good option is Aristoflex AVC. This ingredient creates a clear gel texture in water-based formulas and is easy to use.
- Adjust percentages:
- Keep the water-soluble active ingredients at their current effective percentages: Witch Hazel (20%), Safe-B3 (4%), Rice Vitamin (2%), TreMoisture (2%), 1,2-Hexanediol (3%), GlucoBright (4%), Aloe Vera Extract (3%).
- Increase Mild Preserved Eco to 1.0-1.5% for more robust preservation.
- Add Aristoflex AVC at a percentage between 0.5% and 1.5% (or adjust as needed) to achieve the desired serum viscosity. Start with a lower percentage (e.g., 0.5-1.0%) for a very light serum.
- Adjust Purified Water percentage to make the total 100%.
Example Revised Formula Structure (Gel Serum):
- Witch Hazel: 20%
- Safe-B3: 4%
- Rice Vitamin: 2%
- TreMoisture: 2%
- 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
- GlucoBright: 4%
- Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1.0-1.5%
- Aristoflex AVC: 0.5-1.5% (adjust for desired thickness)
- Purified Water: Balance to 100%
This revised formula will give you a water-based gel serum that is typically lighter and absorbs faster than an emulsion. Remember to perform a challenge test on the final formula to ensure its microbial stability.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Light Cream Maker™
Fractionated Coconut Oil
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)