Formula Review Before Production

Question

Based on the following formula, are there any issues or problems that need to be addressed before proceeding with production?

[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87/7564-skin-mimic-skin-barrier-restoration.html:dwxt5fnq]Skin-mimic™ (Skin Barrier Restoration)[/url:dwxt5fnq] 10.00 %
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7-moisturizer/1281-skinlipid-second-skin.html:dwxt5fnq]SkinLipid™[/url:dwxt5fnq] 5.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emollient-ester-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/1203-ethyl-linoleate.html:dwxt5fnq]LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate)[/url:dwxt5fnq] 2.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99/841-capryloyl-salicylic-acid-lha-powder.html:dwxt5fnq]Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA)[/url:dwxt5fnq] Powder 0.50 %
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/7541-quercetin-98-purity-powder.html:dwxt5fnq]Idebenone[/url:dwxt5fnq] 0.50 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/1022-scutellaria-baicalensis-root-extract.html:dwxt5fnq]Pure-Baicalin[/url:dwxt5fnq]™ 0.30 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/770-rhamnose-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA.html:dwxt5fnq]Rhamnose[/url:dwxt5fnq] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/770-rhamnose-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA.html:dwxt5fnq]น้ำตาลแรมโนส[/url:dwxt5fnq]) 5.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/6613-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%82%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%Aซ%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99-salmon-roe-extract.html:dwxt5fnq]Salmon Roe Extract[/url:dwxt5fnq] 1.00 %
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-wrinkle/7082-ultrasomes-micrococcus-lysate.html:dwxt5fnq]Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate[/url:dwxt5fnq] 1.00 %
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7-moisturizer/7765-ppg-24-glycereth-24.html:dwxt5fnq]TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24)[/url:dwxt5fnq] 2.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7-moisturizer/7358-peg-ppg-14-7-dimethyl-ether.html:dwxt5fnq]VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether)[/url:dwxt5fnq] 2.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:dwxt5fnq]Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)[/url:dwxt5fnq] 3.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/additive-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%87/2071-odor-kill-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3.html:dwxt5fnq]Odor-Kill™[/url:dwxt5fnq] (ละลายน้ำ) 1.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:dwxt5fnq]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:dwxt5fnq] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:dwxt5fnq]Preservative-Free[/url:dwxt5fnq]) 1.00 %
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/oil-in-water-emulsifier/8007-cetearyl-glucoside-and-cetearyl-alcohol.html:dwxt5fnq]Moist Cream Maker™[/url:dwxt5fnq] 3.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/55-emollient-ester-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99:dwxt5fnq]LipidSoft™[/url:dwxt5fnq] Cyclo 5.00 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/153-citric-acid-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%81-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7.html:dwxt5fnq]Citric Acid[/url:dwxt5fnq] (High Purity, Anhydrous) 0.20 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:dwxt5fnq]น้ำกลั่น[/url:dwxt5fnq] ปราศจากเชื้อ 57.50 %

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Review

Overall, the selection of ingredients targets skin barrier repair, anti-aging, moisturizing, and gentle exfoliation. However, there are several important points to address:

Total Percentage: The sum of the percentages in your formula is 102.5%. This is incorrect. The total percentage of all ingredients in a formulation must always equal 100%. You will need to adjust the percentages of the ingredients to sum up to exactly 100%.
Ingredient Storage: Several ingredients in your formula require specific storage conditions, particularly refrigeration or cool temperatures, for optimal shelf life and stability. These include Skin-Barrier™, Pure-Baicalin™, Salmon Roe Extract, Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate, and Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI). You must ensure that both the raw materials and potentially the final product are stored according to these requirements.
Mixing Temperatures: The formula contains ingredients that need to be mixed in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (around 60-80°C) and ingredients that are sensitive to heat and must be added in the water phase during the cool-down phase (below 40-60°C). You will need to follow a manufacturing process that accommodates these different temperature requirements, typically involving heating the oil and water phases separately, combining them to form the emulsion, and then adding the heat-sensitive ingredients as the emulsion cools down.
pH Adjustment: The final pH of the formula is crucial for the stability and efficacy of several ingredients, particularly Pure-Baicalin™ (dissolves best at pH 6.5-7.2) and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) (works at a pH close to skin, around 5.5). While most ingredients are stable within a broad pH range (3.5-9), you will need to carefully adjust the final pH using Citric Acid to a range that optimizes the performance and stability of all active ingredients, ideally between 5.5 and 7.2. Remember to add Citric Acid gradually and measure the pH as you go.
Solubility and Dispersion: Salmon Roe Extract is dispersed in water and requires the formula to have sufficient viscosity to prevent it from settling. Ensure the final cream texture created by Moist Cream Maker™ is thick enough to keep the extract evenly dispersed.
Odor and Fragrance: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) has a characteristic ether-like smell. You have included Odor-Kill™ which can help absorb this odor. However, be aware that Odor-Kill™ also absorbs fragrance. If you plan to add a fragrance to this formula, the Odor-Kill™ might reduce its intensity.
Preservation: You are using Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1%. This is within the recommended range for general use, but it is essential to perform a microbial challenge test on the final product to confirm that the preservation system is effective against microbial growth for the intended shelf life and packaging.

By addressing the total percentage and carefully managing the manufacturing process regarding temperatures, pH adjustment, and ingredient addition phases, this formulation appears viable. Pay close attention to the storage requirements for the raw materials and the final product.