Formula Review for Anti-Aging and Firming Serum

Asked by: vaschara.pizza On: August 06, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have combination skin and am starting to see fine lines on my forehead and around my eyes. I want my skin to be lifted, wrinkles reduced, and skin to feel stronger and thicker. I want to use this formula with my mother, who also has combination skin. I am 34 and my mother is 56. Here is the formula:

  • Matrixyl 3000 5%
  • Argireline 5%
  • DMAE (น้ำ) 4%
  • สารสกัดหอยทาก 4%
  • สารสกัดใบบัวบก 3%
  • pro polymer 1.5%
  • phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • น้ำส่วนที่เหลือ (Remaining water)

Please review this formula and advise on its suitability and potential issues, especially considering the different age groups.

Answer

Formula Review for Anti-Aging and Firming Serum

Thank you for sharing your formula. It contains several excellent ingredients known for their anti-aging and skin-strengthening properties, suitable for addressing wrinkles and loss of firmness for both mixed skin types and different age groups (34 and 56).

Here is a review of the ingredients and concentrations in your proposed formula:

  • Matrixyl 3000 (5%): This peptide blend is effective at stimulating collagen synthesis, which helps reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. The concentration of 5% is within the recommended usage range and should provide good results.
  • Argireline (5%): Known for its ability to reduce muscle contractions that cause expression lines, particularly around the forehead and eyes. The 5% concentration is within the effective range for targeting these types of wrinkles.
  • DMAE (4%): DMAE is beneficial for skin firming and has antioxidant properties. Your proposed concentration of 4% is within the general usage range (1-10%). However, it is slightly above the typically recommended concentration of 3% and approaches levels that may cause irritation, especially on more mature or sensitive skin. It is advisable to start with a lower concentration, perhaps 3%, and observe skin reaction before increasing.
  • Snail Extract (4%): Snail secretion filtrate is rich in beneficial compounds that promote skin regeneration, reduce irritation, moisturize, and support collagen and elastin. The 4% concentration is within the recommended usage range and contributes well to the formula's goals.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (3%): Centella Asiatica is excellent for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stimulating properties. While beneficial, a concentration of 3% is higher than the typical recommended usage rate (0.1-2%, with 1% often recommended for high-concentration extracts). Using a high concentration might affect formula stability or increase the risk of skin sensitivity. It would be safer to use this ingredient within the 1-2% range.
  • Pro Polymer (1.5%): This ingredient acts as a gelling agent to create the desired texture for your serum. The concentration of 1.5% is within the effective range for forming a gel.
  • Phenoxyethanol (1%): This is a preservative to keep your product safe from microbial growth. The 1% concentration is the maximum recommended usage rate and provides effective preservation.
  • Allantoin (0.5%): Allantoin is well-known for its soothing, anti-irritant, and skin-healing properties. The 0.5% concentration is the typically recommended amount for water-based formulas and helps reduce potential irritation from other active ingredients.

Considerations for Sharing:

The formula contains potent active ingredients suitable for both age groups. However, mature skin (56 years old) can sometimes be more prone to dryness and sensitivity. The concentrations of DMAE (4%) and Centella Asiatica Extract (3%) are areas to consider. While your skin at 34 might tolerate these levels well, your mother's skin at 56 might be more reactive.

Recommendations:

  1. Adjust Concentrations: Consider slightly reducing the concentration of DMAE to 3% and Centella Asiatica Extract to 1-2% to minimize the potential for irritation, especially for your mother. These adjusted concentrations are still effective based on product information.
  2. Patch Testing: Regardless of concentration adjustments, it is highly recommended that both you and your mother perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the serum to the entire face, to ensure there is no adverse reaction.
  3. Observe Skin Response: Pay close attention to how both your skin and your mother's skin react to the serum. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use or further reduce the concentration of potentially irritating ingredients like DMAE.

Overall, your formula has a strong foundation with well-chosen active ingredients. By potentially adjusting the concentrations of DMAE and Centella Asiatica and performing patch tests, you can create a potent and safer serum for both you and your mother.