Formula Review for Anti-Aging, Lifting, and Moisturizing Cream (Combination Skin)

Subject: Formula Review for Anti-Aging and Moisturizing Cream (Combination Skin)

Hello,

Thank you for submitting your cream formula for review. You're looking to create a cream that reduces and prevents wrinkles, provides lifting, and adds moisture, specifically for combination skin that has some wrinkles, needs extra moisture, and you desire an immediate lifting feel, a soft/smooth, non-greasy texture, and fast absorption.

Your proposed formula includes several excellent ingredients targeting these concerns, such as Matrixyl™ 3000, Argireline, Lift-Now™, Vitamin B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, and Beta Glucan.

Based on your skin type (combination) and desired texture (non-greasy, fast-absorbing), and incorporating feedback from our expert C7, here are some points and suggested adjustments:

1. Texture and Skin Type Suitability: For combination skin, ingredients like Shea Butter can sometimes feel too heavy or greasy. While Shea Butter is great for dry or irritated skin, reducing or replacing it might better suit your goal for a lighter, non-greasy feel. C7 suggested alternatives like Zinc PCA, which can be beneficial for combination skin and also offers some moisturizing properties.
2. Ingredient Percentages:
   • C7 recommended increasing Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) from 2% to 5% to maximize its benefits for dark spots, moisture, and overall skin health.
   • Increasing Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane from 3% to 5-7% (C7 suggested 5-7%) can enhance the smooth, non-greasy feel and aid in active ingredient delivery. Let's propose increasing it to 5%.
3. Emulsifier: As C7 noted, PEG-10 Dimethicone (1%) is likely not necessary when using Light Cream Maker (1%) in this type of formula. Light Cream Maker should be sufficient to emulsify the oil and silicone phases with the water phase. Removing PEG-10 Dimethicone can simplify the formula.

Proposed Revised Formula:

Considering the above points, here is a suggested revised formula aiming for your goals and skin type:

• Water: 64.8%
• EDTA: 0.2%
• Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
• Argireline: 3%
• Lift-Now™: 2%
• Vit B3 (Niacinamide): 5% (Increased)
• n-acetyl glucosamine: 4%
• Beta Glucan: 4%
• Propylene Glycol: 2%
• Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane: 5% (Increased)
• Grape Seed Oil: 2%
• Zinc PCA: 1% (Added - replacing Shea Butter)
• Bisabolol: 1%
• Light Cream Maker: 1%
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
• ~~Shea butter~~ (Removed)
• ~~PEG-10 Dimethicone~~ (Removed)

Total: 100%

• Note: The water percentage has been adjusted to accommodate the changes in other ingredients.*

Proposed Revised Mixing Procedure:

Based on the revised formula, here is a suggested mixing procedure:

• Water Phase:
  • Combine Water and EDTA.
  • Add Matrixyl™ 3000, Argireline, Lift-Now™, Vit B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, Beta Glucan, Propylene Glycol, and Zinc PCA to the water/EDTA mixture. Stir until all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
• Oil Phase:
  • Combine Grape Seed Oil, Bisabolol, and Light Cream Maker. Heat this mixture to 60-70°C to ensure the emulsifier is properly activated.
  • Remove from heat and let cool to 40-45°C.
  • Add Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane to the cooled oil phase. Stir to combine.
• Combine Phases:
  • Slowly add the Oil Phase to the Water Phase while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until a homogeneous cream is formed.
  • Add Phenoxyethanol and stir until evenly distributed.

This revised formula reduces the heavier oil/butter component and increases key actives and the silicone for a potentially lighter, smoother, and faster-absorbing texture better suited for combination skin, while still providing strong anti-aging, lifting, and moisturizing benefits.

Please note that formulation can sometimes require minor adjustments based on the specific raw materials and desired final texture. This is a suggested starting point based on your goals and the ingredients chosen.

We hope this review is helpful!