Formula Review for Brightening & Moisturizing Body Lotion
Question
I would like advice on a formula for a body lotion targeting dry and dark skin, focusing on moisturization and brightening. I have modified a previous formula by removing Vitamin C and adding Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ instead. The proposed formula is:
- Water (to 100%)
- Sunflower Oil + Shea Butter Light Oil 20%
- Glycerin 2%
- Ethoxydiglycol 2%
- Tomato Extract 2%
- Light Cream Maker 1-1.5%
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.5%
- Activated Resorcinol™ 1%
- Phenoxyethanol 1-1.5%
- Disodium EDTA 0.2%
- Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) 4%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
Could you please review this formula and provide recommendations?
Answer
Formula Review and Recommendations
Moisturizing Ingredients
The combination of Sunflower Oil and Shea Butter Light Oil at 20% provides a good level of emollients suitable for dry skin, helping to soften and smooth the skin. Glycerin at 2% acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin. Vitamin E also contributes to moisturization and provides antioxidant benefits. Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) both offer moisturizing benefits by supporting the skin barrier and stimulating hyaluronic acid production.
Brightening Ingredients
You have included several effective brightening agents:
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol) at 1% is a potent ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Note that 1% is the maximum recommended usage rate for leave-on products.
- Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) at 4% is known to help reduce the appearance of dark spots and improve overall skin tone.
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) at 4% works synergistically with Niacinamide to reduce hyperpigmentation.
Tomato Extract provides antioxidant properties, which can also contribute to overall skin health and potentially help with skin tone over time.
Formula Structure and Stability
- Light Cream Maker is a suitable emulsifier for creating a cream with a 20% oil phase, although this is at the upper limit of its recommended oil load. Using 1-1.5% should be sufficient, but precise mixing is important to ensure a stable emulsion. Avoid high-speed mixing.
- Ethoxydiglycol acts as a solvent and carrier, which can help the active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. Your usage rate of 2% is within the recommended limit for leave-on products.
- Disodium EDTA at 0.2% is important for chelating metal ions in the water, which helps stabilize the formula and is particularly recommended for preventing discoloration of Activated Resorcinol™.
- Phenoxyethanol at 1-1.5% is included as a preservative. While 1% is a common rate, 1.5% is at the higher end for leave-on products. Ensure this concentration is appropriate for your specific product type and region's regulations.
pH Considerations
For optimal stability and efficacy of the active ingredients, particularly Activated Resorcinol™, Safe-B3™, and GlucoBright™, the final pH of the formula should ideally be in the range of 4.5-5.5. You should check the pH of your finished product and adjust it if necessary.
Mixing Instructions
Follow the standard procedure for using Light Cream Maker:
- Combine all water-soluble ingredients (Water, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Tomato Extract, Disodium EDTA, Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Phenoxyethanol) in the water phase. Add Disodium EDTA first to the water. If heating the water phase, add Tomato Extract after the mixture has cooled below 40°C.
- Combine all oil-soluble ingredients (Sunflower Oil, Shea Butter Light Oil, Vitamin E, Activated Resorcinol™) in the oil phase. Dissolve Activated Resorcinol™ in the oil phase without heating.
- Add Light Cream Maker to either the oil phase or the water phase (check the specific instructions for your Light Cream Maker product, but typically it can be added to either).
- Combine the oil phase and water phase while stirring or blending until a cream is formed. Avoid excessive shear or high-speed mixing.
Packaging and Storage
Activated Resorcinol™ is light-sensitive and can cause the formula to discolor upon exposure to light. It is highly recommended to package the finished product in an opaque container to protect it. Store the product in a cool place away from direct sunlight and heat to maintain stability.
Overall, this formula contains a good blend of ingredients to achieve moisturization and brightening for dry and dark skin. Paying close attention to the mixing process, final pH, and packaging will be key to the success and stability of your body lotion.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Light Cream Maker™
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Disodium EDTA
Shea Butter Light Oil
Tomato Extract (Lycopene)