Formula Review for Dark Spots and Brightening

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients known for their effectiveness in addressing dark spots, promoting brightness, and managing acne-related concerns.

• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): At 5%, this is a well-supported concentration for reducing hyperpigmentation, improving skin barrier function, and reducing oiliness, which can help with acne marks.
• Alpha Arbutin: Using Alpha Arbutin at 2% is the maximum recommended concentration for skin brightening and reducing melanin production.
• Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): At 10%, this is an effective concentration for brightening skin, reducing dark spots, controlling oil, and reducing acne. Note that this form is water-soluble and gentler than traditional Azelaic Acid.
• Snail Secretion: Included at 3%, Snail Secretion can help soothe the skin, reduce irritation, and provide hydration, complementing the active ingredients.
• Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%): At 0.5%, this extract is beneficial for reducing inflammation and oiliness associated with acne. While this specific type (Licochalcone A) is not primarily for whitening, it helps address the root causes of some dark marks.
• Aloe Vera Extract: At 3%, Aloe Vera Extract provides soothing and moisturizing benefits.
• Royal Jelly Extract (10-hydroxydecanoic acid): You listed this at 5%. Based on the information for Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid (98% Purity), the recommended usage rate is much lower, typically 0.1-1% (0.5% recommended). Also, this form is an oil-soluble powder and needs to be dissolved in an oil phase. Your current formula structure (water-based with Light Cream Maker) does not include an oil phase. If you are using this specific oil-soluble ingredient, you would need to add an oil phase to your formula or consider using a different, water-soluble form of Royal Jelly Extract if available and suitable for your goals. Using 5% of the 10-HDA powder without an oil phase and at such a high concentration is not recommended based on the product information.
• Light Cream Maker™: Using Light Cream Maker at 2% is appropriate for creating a cream texture. As the staff mentioned, you do not need to add xanthan gum. Light Cream Maker is sufficient for thickening.

Formulation Considerations:

1. pH Level: For optimal stability and effectiveness, especially for Alpha Arbutin and Azelaic Acid, the final pH of your cream should ideally be between 5.0 and 6.5. You should check the pH of your finished product and adjust it if necessary.
2. Royal Jelly Extract (10-HDA): If you are using the oil-soluble 10-hydroxydecanoic acid powder form, you must incorporate an oil phase into your formula to properly dissolve it. The current formula is primarily water-based with a water-phase thickener/emulsifier. You should also reduce the concentration to the recommended range (0.1-1%). If you intend to use a water-soluble Royal Jelly Extract, please ensure its compatibility and recommended usage rate.
3. Mixing Method: Follow the recommended mixing instructions for each ingredient. Water-soluble ingredients can be added to the water phase. If using the oil-soluble Royal Jelly Extract (10-HDA), dissolve it in the oil phase before combining with the water phase using the Light Cream Maker. Add heat-sensitive ingredients like Alpha Arbutin and Snail Secretion in the final step below their maximum temperature limits (below 30°C for Alpha Arbutin, below 40°C for Snail Secretion and Liquid Azelaic™).

Usage on Body:

As the staff confirmed, a formula that is safe for use on the face is generally safe for use on the body as well.

Overall, your ingredient selection is good for targeting dark spots and brightening, but you need to address the concentration and solubility of the Royal Jelly Extract and ensure the final pH is within the optimal range for your active ingredients.